For the umpteenth time, I embarked on an adventure with my motorbike and tent to reach a place that had been on my mind for months. Initially planned for a winter trip, this much-anticipated journey finally took place at the end of August 2023 under a blazing sun!

Whether riding solo or with companions, every road trip is different! This year, I set out with three fellow riders: Romain, a 45-year-old novice, and Julien and Gaétan, two experienced riders in their thirties with whom I regularly ride in the Puy de Dôme. A rather eclectic group gathered for an adventure that would leave a mark on the bikes and the riders.

I can hear some of you thinking, “It’s just Sardinia, nothing crazy…” Well, I felt the same before leaving. After Morocco, nothing seemed impossible. But the first 72 hours on the island were far from the smooth ride I had imagined..

Let’s first talk about how our group came together for this adventure. There’s Romain, our beginner, with only one week of off-road riding. He has a lot to learn due to his lack of experience, but he’s motivated, which matters to us! Julien, who rode enduro in his youth, regularly rides his Ténéré 700, though this was his first long-distance expedition, a true test of his endurance! Gaétan, a seasoned traveler and camper, is a thoughtful rider with an unbeatable sense of humor. Not only was he the Swiss army knife of the trip, but he also kept us laughing throughout!

A Cool Night in the Alps Before Facing Sardinia’s Heat

We set off from our headquarters in Clermont-Ferrand towards the Alps, where we’d meet Romain, who was starting from Annecy. That first day was sensational, with over 36,000 feet (11,000 meters) of elevation through breathtaking passes and gorges. We covered nearly 310 miles (500 km) that day, a perfect warm-up for our tires. We ended at the Galibier Pass, where we camped at an elevation of 6,500 feet (2,000 meters).

At dawn, Romain joined us for a hearty breakfast in Briançon. The group was complete, and day two was all set to take us straight to Genoa, where we’d catch the ferry. Before that, we tackled the Izoard Pass, whose early twists tested our endurance, leading us to the Italian border at Agnel Pass. The landscapes soon became spectacular across northwestern Italy, a region none had explored before! From vast agricultural plains to endless vineyards in Piedmont, the day had plenty of surprises for our eyes and our T7s.

Speaking of which, I should mention that our entire group was riding Yamaha Ténéré 700s. Coincidence or a selection criterion? I’ll let you decide! One thing is for sure: this bike never lets me down, and I can’t imagine adventuring on any other machine!

A Night on the Ferry: Wet and Wild

We finally boarded after waiting in the unbearable heat of Genoa, delayed by the ferry. We bid farewell to Italy, and after a quick meal, it was time to sleep in preparation for the rest of the trip. But, like the amateur I am (we all are), despite having experienced this same situation months earlier, I brought nothing for the night, thinking the summer temperatures would suffice. How wrong I was! Once at sea, everything changed.

Our poorly equipped group split in two, with the less daring heading indoors to build a makeshift shelter under a staircase. On the other hand, Julien and I chose the hard route, sleeping outside on deck chairs amidst exhaust fumes and the ship’s intense engine vibrations. After a damp night that left its mark on our faces, we were greeted by a stunning Mediterranean sunrise, instantly lifting our spirits. A few hours later, we spotted the port of Olbia—our first destination and the real start of the adventure.

But first, after a long disembarkation and a hearty local meal, the oppressive heat combined with our exhaustion led to a unanimous decision: we were going for a swim! So, in full tourist mode, dressed in shorts, t-shirts, and sneakers, we headed to the nearest beach, already crowded with thousands of tourists. A quick dip in the turquoise waters, over 80°F (27°C), and it was finally time to hit the Sardinian trails.

The Start of the Real Journey

For this road trip, which combined dirt and asphalt, we all chose dual-purpose tires to be as comfortable as possible in any situation. I went with Michelin Anakee Wilds, while my three comrades rode Bridgestone AX41s. Both tire types, suited for similar terrain, proved effective in the harsh conditions we faced—boiling asphalt and razor-sharp rocks alike.

As for the bikes, all of us had stock models equipped with crash bars and other protections. Only the luggage came from different brands, quickly exposing each one’s flaws. Straps broke from constant vibrations, and some parts tore due to the overgrown vegetation on certain sections. Everyone suffered from this unforgiving nature, but I was the first to pay the price after my bike fell on one of the trip’s first steep climbs. My brand-new SysBag WP from SW Motech split completely open from bottom to top. The glue simply gave out, likely from the intense heat and proximity to the exhaust. It was a frustrating blow to see brand-new gear fail on the very first day. Luckily, we had plenty of straps, always handy in situations like this.

High-quality equipment is essential on these trips, where it’s pushed to its limits due to heavy use. Often, it’s only during the trip that you discover which gear is good and which is not, and depending on its importance, this can be extremely inconvenient. It’s vital to always bring backup solutions for gear you’re unsure about: straps, zip ties, and duct tape—the basic trio that can get you out of a lot of small jams.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.

Sardaigne 2023 Copyright Mulet Cycle 157 15

Sardaigne 2023 Copyright Mulet Cycle 117 6

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The Adventure Really Begins

Physically and mentally, the first three days were intense! We began by following the Trans Euro Trail (TET), with the first few miles being pleasant. It wasn’t too hot yet, and the terrain was manageable. We were diving into the unknown, with only a 4×4 track encircling the island and a few TET sections we found online as our guide. However, just minutes later, the first challenges appeared: twisty single tracks lined with thorns and cacti, followed by some steep climbs where we had to prove ourselves. The number of crashes started to rise quickly—our counters were getting quite the workout.

The sun was now beating down on our helmets, and the constant back-and-forth to assist each other was draining. Unfortunately, Romain, our beginner, bore the brunt of my frustration (sorry, bro). Looking back, I realize we were no longer thinking clearly, overwhelmed by frustration and the sudden shift from our dream vacation to what felt like a nightmare.

These first days had utterly exhausted us. The adventure battered our bodies, and the surrounding dryness didn’t even allow us the chance to cool off in a river. We were deep inland, with the sea nowhere near our route. The temperature was pushing 104°F (40°C), and every effort came at a price. I don’t recall ever drinking so much water in my life—on average, we each consumed four liters a day, not counting ice-cold Cokes and sparkling water!

By the end of the third day, we decided to sleep in a real bed, eat a good meal, and, most importantly, take a decent shower. Just imagine the smell of a riding boot after an ordeal like that… it stings. We opted for an agro-tourism spot—a farm hotel serving only locally sourced products. We enjoyed a true feast!

When the Fun Begins

The following days finally marked the start of the trip we had been dreaming of! Beautiful winding coastal roads quickly took us to higher ground through 4×4 tracks and smooth trails. The stunning landscapes, set against a blue backdrop where the sea blended into the sky, were exactly what we expected from Sardinia, and the island finally delivered! It was refreshing to finally feel that breeze in our helmets that we’d been deprived of during the first few days.

Between dreamy beach campsites and legendary off-road sections, the end of the first week fulfilled all its promises. However, not all campsites were as idyllic as they may sound. The humidity by the sea became overwhelming as soon as night fell. Sometimes, our gear didn’t even have time to dry from the day’s sweat before the humidity set in again. It was the same for our skin. Despite our best efforts with wet wipes, that sticky feeling was ever-present. In retrospect, I think the island’s conditions for a wandering motorcyclist were tougher than in Morocco, both physically and practically. The daily heat, combined with the humidity and technical riding, really took its toll.

As the days passed, we finally made our way to Cagliari, in the southern part of the island. We had now ridden the entire western coast and were ready to experience Sardinian city life before starting our journey back up north. After a pleasant evening exploring the city and sampling local specialties, we set off again, heading north along the eastern coast. We had heard that this area was filled with rocky massifs, and we all secretly dreaded revisiting the challenging terrain that had caused us so much pain earlier. Thankfully, our apprehensions proved to be unfounded. The rest of the journey unfolded smoothly, without too many issues.

The island’s flora and fauna continued to amaze us throughout the trip! We were lucky enough to encounter several turtles in the forests near the few streams we crossed, and we even saw dolphins at sunset, just off the beach. It was one of those moments where time seemed to stand still, allowing us to appreciate the present fully. Through Instagram, another Ténéré rider pointed me to a famous spot called Micky’s Jump. Alongside the jump, we found plenty of trails from the Sardinian Rally—perfect for releasing any lingering frustrations from the early days! It was the perfect place to release any frustration from the early days! And it was going fast, very fast! As for the blind jump (WRC Micky Biasio’s jump), whose trajectory took you straight into a stone wall at over 80 km/h… To tell you the truth, it was way too scary to hit it straight after breakfast!