Riding with Dakar Champion
Kevin Benavides
The long-awaited journey had finally come to fruition… For years, I had dreamed of tracing the same dust-ridden paths that legends carved through the desert. This time, the stars had aligned perfectly, ushering me into the heart of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, masterfully led by two-time Dakar champion Kevin Benavides, celebrated for his victories in 2021 and the most recent 2023 rally, in collaboration with the expert team with Big Trail Argentina.
As an avid motorcycle enthusiast, I’ve been spellbound by the Rally Raid races, with the Dakar holding a special place in my heart. To witness those heroic riders master rally bikes at full throttle is a spectacle in itself.
They command sheer power and juggle roadbook navigation, unforgiving desert terrains, elusive waypoints, and the on-the-fly mechanical skills needed for roadside repairs.
Now, imagine the dream of riding side by side with a legend fresh from his latest triumph. For a motorsport aficionado, it’s akin to being invited to play football with Leo Messi. That’s the thrill of the ‘Kevin Benavides Maximum Experience.’
From Buenos Aires to the Adventure
We set off from the city of Buenos Aires with the support vehicles of Big Trail Argentina, carrying 13 motorcycles of various kinds, including my new KTM 790 Adventure R with just 100 mi (160 km) on the odometer!! Our destination: Salta, where we would meet the other riders of this adventure.
Upon our arrival in Salta, we were granted a day to make final preparations on our motorcycles, ready our riding gear, and acquaint ourselves with the rest of the group, who were gradually gathering at the hotel from various origins. The Portezuelo Nuevo Hotel, conveniently located at the entrance of the city, proved to be an ideal base for us. Its accessibility was a significant advantage, making it easy to reach upon our initial arrival and also conveniently close to our first gravel road as we started the tour. The hotel also boasted a lovely swimming pool, which provided a refreshing respite on our first day, and offered a spectacular view of the city of Salta from above, adding to the charm and comfort of our stay.
In the evening, we held the real treat. We were welcomed by the Benavides brothers, Kevin and Luciano, at their home! As we stepped onto the property, Kevin greeted us in his workshop/museum, his operational hub. The KTM 450 Rally bike adorned with the classic number 47 stood proudly—the machine that carried him to victory in the 2023 Dakar Rally. The atmosphere buzzed with excitement as we made our introductions, snapped photos with our host, and admired his bikes and race-worn jerseys, a pilgrimage site for any Dakar aficionado.
Our tour continued to another building, where Kevin once again greeted us, this time in front of a display brimming with his and his younger brother Luciano’s trophies. The collection was a testament to their skill and dedication, featuring the coveted Touaregs for 2nd place in 2018, 1st place with Honda in 2021, and Kevin’s 1st place with KTM in 2023. It also honored Luciano’s recent crowning as the Rally Raid World Champion, surrounded by a sea of medals from various stage wins.
After capturing the moment beside the impressive collection of trophies, which hinted at needing a larger table for future triumphs, our evening seamlessly transitioned into a culinary experience. A traditional and magnificent Argentine asado was served, celebrating the local cuisine’s rich flavors.
We gathered around a grand table, enjoying the meal in the company of Kevin and Luciano, along with some of their local friends. The ambiance was filled with the warmth of shared stories and laughter, enhancing the meal’s enjoyment and the sense of camaraderie.
The experience was unparalleled, deserving of the highest accolades, to be generously hosted by such extraordinary icons. The Benavides brothers were notable for their down-to-earth nature, kindness, and welcoming energy—a true apex of the adventure.
As the night drew to a close, the glow of warm conversation and laughter lingered in the air. Sitting there amidst legends of the rally world, the experience transcended mere dining; it was a gathering that fused the thrill of the ride with the bond of mutual respect and admiration. The Benavides brothers had not only shared their home but had opened a world where the grit of the rally tracks meets the grace of humble triumph. A profound sense of gratitude filled the room as we bid our farewells. We carried away from the table the spirit of the Dakar, ready to inspire our journeys on the open trails. It was an evening that marked the beginning of our adventure and left a lasting impression on our collective spirit of exploration.
Journey from Salta to Cafayate (177 mi / 285 km)
Day 1
Following a hearty breakfast at our hotel in Salta, we were ushered into our first rider briefing with Kevin. He officially welcomed us and outlined the day ahead: our route, the types of roads we’d encounter, regrouping points, and safety tips—all to ensure we’d savor the first day and gradually attune to our bikes.
It’s worth noting the camaraderie within our diverse group, comprising riders predominantly from Buenos Aires, but also from Bariloche in Patagonia, Mendoza, and a contingent of motorcycle enthusiasts from Brazil and Paraguay.
Kevin had handpicked the day’s routes for their moderate technical challenge—winding mountain roads with gravel surfaces and occasional sandy stretches where our bikes danced more freely. Here, I’d like to share my initial impressions of my new companion, the KTM 790 Adventure R. It was love at first sight—or, more accurately, within the first miles. The ride felt effortless and natural; the bike’s ergonomics provided comfort, whether seated or standing on the generously wide and accommodating footpegs. Low-speed maneuvers through tight, ascending bends and the more open sections allowing the unleashing of all 95 horsepower felt intuitive, aided by traction control until I was ready to switch to the Off-Road or Rally modes for a more tailored electronic assistance setting.
The route took us through the stunning landscapes of Salta province in Northwest Argentina. Each climb and curve revealed breathtaking vistas, constantly shifting and challenging us to balance the enjoyment of spirited off-road riding with the more serene appreciation of the natural beauty. The ideal was to mix both—allowing some distance from the rider ahead to let the dust settle, then taking in the views: rivers framed by mountains with incredible rock formations, sometimes flanked by lush greenery, then seamlessly transitioning into more arid terrains. Each landscape had its charm and was worth savoring, perhaps with a photo stop for particularly captivating scenes. As the dust from the leading bikes settled, it was time to pick up the pace, growing ever more confident with my new KTM, which is an absolute joy to ride!
We left Salta, heading east on secondary road #48. After a journey of about 40 miles (65 km) on gravel, we turned south towards San Francisco, passing by Dique Cabra Corral and Coronel Moldes. This segment marked our initial off-road experience. Continuing, we connected with Route 68 heading south to Cafayate. This stretch, an asphalt road covering approximately 80 miles (130 km), was the longest on-road section of our tour. Despite its length, the ride was utterly enjoyable.
Winding through a valley encased by whimsical rock formations painted with an infinite palette of colors, this scenic route never bored; navigating through the tight turns was a delight.
After refueling in La Viña, we continued towards Cafayate in the Valles Calchaquíes area. Upon reaching the picturesque town of Cafayate, we headed to the private neighborhood of Estancias de Cafayate Wine & Golf – Grace, where an eagerly anticipated lunch awaited us at the Club House.
Many of us opted for the classic Argentine dish, milanesa a caballo—a breaded steak with fries and fried eggs—which did not disappoint!
After lunch, the coordinators from Big Trail Tours Argentina, brothers Guille and Pato Marelli, shared some exciting news with us. We were informed that we would be staying in a rental house alongside our host and guide, Kevin Benavides — an honor that was both unexpected and thrilling. This arrangement set the stage for a deeply communal experience, one that was rooted in our shared passion for riding and the unique adventure we were all part of.
It’s worth mentioning that Big Trail Argentina adeptly handles the transfer of our luggage from one hotel to the next using their support vehicles, allowing us to ride unencumbered by extra baggage. A small backpack with essentials was all that was needed.
There was also no need for excessive worry about potential mechanical issues with our bikes. As part of the organized team, we were accompanied by two remarkable individuals, Carlos Zeiss and Pablo Maier, from the city of Bariloche in Patagonia. Not only did they serve as escorts and guides, but they also excelled as mechanical assistants and tire experts, adeptly managing more than ten tire punctures across various motorcycles throughout our journey. Beyond their technical skills, their amusing stories at the end of each riding day often left us in fits of laughter.
Additionally, we were supported by Luchi Marelli, who served as a marshal and was always ready to assist with any unexpected situations. Franco Marelli and Gian Clavelino completed our support team, bringing up the rear each day in a 4×4 vehicle laden with an array of tools and spare parts for any minor mishaps.
Importantly, the comprehensive care from Big Trail Argentina extended to our safety and well-being. An ambulance with three paramedics was discreetly present throughout the journey, ensuring immediate medical attention if needed. Fortunately, their services were only required for minor bumps and scratches, but their presence provided an invaluable peace of mind.
The entire Big Trail staff deserves recognition for their positive attitude and readiness to tackle any issue. They were more than just good hosts and excellent tour organizers; they became an integral part of our band of riders, transforming what was an organized tour into a journey of friends united by a passion for motorcycling.
To cap off this exhilarating first day, we headed to a charming restaurant in the town of Cafayate, where a large table awaited all participants and staff. It was the perfect setting to reflect on the day’s adventures and bond over a meal, reinforcing the camaraderie that had been cultivated on the winding roads and under the vast Argentinian sky.
Off-Road Heartbeat (105 mi / 170 km)
Day 2
The morning greeted us with a hearty breakfast, fueling us for a day dedicated to the pure essence of off-road riding. After a 18 mi (30 km) link section southward from Cafayate along Route 40, past Colalao del Valle, we veered left onto a rural road leading us to the Santa Maria River bed. It was here that the real adventure began, as we delved into an experience that mirrored a rally stage—a taste of what competitors face during the South American editions of the Dakar Rally and, more recently, stages of the Desafio Ruta 40, a part of the FIM World Rally Raid Championship.
We navigated the expansive river bed, its sandy floor offering fast tracks and the freedom to choose our path. The river’s breadth meant we weren’t confined to the tracks left by others; we could carve our routes, guided by the overarching direction set by our star pilot.
Briefly re-emerging onto asphalt for a few miles, we soon returned to gravel, winding through mountains before confronting another river—this one with much softer sands that demanded a more cautious and measured approach from me.
Midday beckoned us to Estancia Los Cardones winery for a much-needed respite. The menu featured traditional Salteñas empanadas, complemented by a light wine tasting, water, and sodas for rehydration.
Reinvigorated, we set off in a convoy back to Cafayate, arriving at our lodging, where we gathered to recount the day’s tales. It was an opportunity to deepen bonds within our eclectic group of riders, with Kevin enriching the evening by sharing some of his personal anecdotes. The day had been a foray into the spirit of rally riding, an encounter with the rugged beauty of Argentina’s terrain, and a chance to connect over shared challenges and triumphs.
Into the Heart of Rally History (105 mi / 170 km)
Day 3
The day began with a short asphalt stretch on Route 68 before we veered left, regrouped, and received our daily briefing from Kevin. He revealed that we were about to traverse one of the most iconic sections of the South American Dakar’s editions—a realization that sent ripples of excitement through the group. We proceeded with caution along the local roads, mindful of tourists and local traffic.
After navigating increasingly remote routes, we found ourselves on a purely off-road track. The day’s journey halted momentarily for a unique showcase from Kevin—an official rider’s speed run. The same paths that challenged us with loose stones and sandy stretches were effortlessly conquered by him at racing speed, leaving us awestruck by his skill and mastery.
After the stunning display of skill provided by Kevin, we resumed our journey and soon found ourselves at the bed of another dry river. Turning right, we began to follow its course as it meandered between mountain ranges. After several twists and turns, I started to notice the mountains on either side drawing closer together, creating an increasingly narrow path ahead. Looking forward, seeking the route onward, it seemed as though we were approaching a dead end, the riverbed leading us straight into a rock wall. At first, I couldn’t grasp where we were heading or how we would find a way through. And then, suddenly, it became clear—we had arrived at the legendary canyon of the Dakar.
Describing this place is a challenge, as it stirred a whirlwind of emotions within me. I realized we were at the threshold of that awe-inspiring site I had so often seen on television, where Dakar competitors of all classes—motorcycles, cars, and even trucks—had once roared through. This narrow canyon opened a passage to the west and the Calchaqui River. It was a serpentine trail between towering walls of stone, a place of majestic beauty, remote and challenging to access, yet thrilling and enjoyable to traverse. Standing at the entrance, I was overwhelmed by the realization that I was about to ride through a part of Dakar history, a moment that combined a sense of awe with an indescribable joy.
At the entrance of the canyon, we regrouped, where Kevin and Luchi awaited us. We gave Machi, our photographer, time to arrive on his intrepid Versys 300, allowing him to venture into the mountain pass to find the best spots for capturing each group member’s journey through the canyon. We began to proceed one rider at a time, spacing our departures to let the dust settle from the bikes ahead, providing Machi the chance to snap clearer, dust-free shots.
When it was my turn, the urge to accelerate full throttle through this legendary passage was overwhelming. However, I quickly realized the need for restraint. The terrain, a mix of sand and gravel, was loose, making navigation more challenging on my 440-pound (200 kg) motorcycle. But what I encountered inside the canyon exceeded all my expectations. My gaze struggled to take in the towering heights, the vast sides, and the path ahead all at once. It was an unforgettable experience, one I was fortunate enough to repeat a few more times since we were allowed multiple passes. With each re-entry into the canyon, my confidence in my riding and my bike grew, allowing me to dare a bit more with each run.
Once we had all navigated the canyon and enjoyed our fair share of fun, it was time for the champion’s showcase. We parked our bikes and gathered to witness the prowess of a professional rider in action. And truly, they operate in a league of their own, making it look almost effortlessly easy, evoking a sense of awe and a touch of envy. Kevin used the sandy mounds and stony curves as if they were natural extensions of a motocross track, leaning into them to navigate turns with incredible agility and then accelerating powerfully on one wheel. Watching his skillful maneuvers was nothing short of breathtaking.
The roar of his 450cc engine with its Akrapovic exhaust echoing off the canyon walls created an exhilarating soundscape that complemented the visual spectacle. It was a performance that encapsulated the essence of skill, control, and the raw power of rally racing, leaving an indelible impression of what it truly means to be a master of the sport.
Every moment spent following in the tracks of a professional rider was more extraordinary than the last—a narrative of adventure that kept surpassing itself.
Our next destination was Siilu Wasi, ‘the house in the sky’ in Quechua, a place that is not only highly recommended for a visit but also offers exceptional accommodation. Siilu Wasi proved to be much more than a stop for a traditional asado; it was a retreat where comfort meets natural beauty. The hotel boasts excellent amenities, including unique dome accommodations that provide stunning views of the surrounding landscape. What’s truly remarkable about Siilu Wasi is its inclusivity, with facilities thoughtfully designed and equipped for guests with disabilities, including those in wheelchairs. This attention to accessibility, combined with the serene atmosphere and picturesque setting, makes Siilu Wasi an unforgettable experience in itself.
After a fulfilling break at this enchanting locale, we continued north, passing through the Quebrada de las Flechas along Route 40 to Angastaco, where we stopped to refuel.
Our path then wove westward through mountain trails to Colome, home to the country’s highest vineyard, and onward to Molinos. Again, the roads unfurled incredible landscapes before us, each new valley presenting a kaleidoscope of colors and rock formations. The choice was ours: to either soak in the natural splendor at a leisurely pace or to engage more spiritedly with the bike on twisting paths, playfully drifting around bends and accelerating out with the rear wheel skidding—ideally, a bit of both.
We arrived to Molinos, a quaint village, we checked into Hacienda de Molinos, a picturesque 17th-century estate reminiscent of the set from ‘The Zorro’ series. Welcomed with an assortment of cheeses, cold cuts, and well-deserved beers and cold drinks, it was another perfect moment to bond with the group. The rest of the afternoon was ours to enjoy at leisure, and as dusk fell, we gathered for dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, ending another unforgettable day.
The Final Stretch (115mi / 185km)
Day 4
In the cool morning air, we left behind the Hacienda de Molinos, a place that seemed to pause time itself. A touch of nostalgia-tinged our spirits as we recognized this was the final leg of our extraordinary journey with Kevin Benavides. The camaraderie that had blossomed over shared passions and myriad emotions was now expressed through heartfelt goodbyes, hugs, and well-wishes.
The motorcycle community is truly remarkable, transforming strangers into fast friends bound by the thrill of the ride. Despite the varied skill levels—from enduro adventurers and amateur riders to those escaping the monotony of daily life—our shared passion united us. Each throttle twist, each mile of untamed landscape, brought us closer, turning us into a band of brothers from across the globe.
The day’s route promised one last dance with the wild as we traversed the final 40 mi (65 km) through Los Cardones National Park. The valley welcomed us with a dramatic shift in scenery, boasting rich, red soil and astonishing rock formations. We rode along the famed Recta del Tin Tin before reaching the asphalt of Route 33, where we turned right to face the renowned Cuesta del Obispo.
We paused at a lookout point, my Garmin watch registering an altitude of 10,945 feet (3,336 meters). The serpentine path unraveling into the valley below—a visual feast for any traveler. This stretch was a patchwork of asphalt and gravel, a rider’s dream akin to a child’s first visit to Disney.
Descending the Cuesta, each group member savored the experience in their unique way, some pushing the pace, others soaking in the vastness. At an intermediate point, where gravel gave way to tighter asphalt curves, my watch showed we had descended nearly 2,953 feet (900 meters) to an elevation of 7,972 feet (2,425 meters). Refueling in El Carril, I noted we were now at 4,133 feet (1,260 meters), with only the last stretch of road leading back to Salta.
Upon reaching the Portezuelo Hotel, we officially regrouped to close our journey. It was a bittersweet moment, joyous for the dream days we had lived and the trails conquered, yet somber as the time came to part ways. Under the endless Argentinian sky, the bonds formed on these dusty tracks would linger long after the engines cooled and the dust settled. It was an experience etched into our very souls, a ride that was so much more than a mere tour—it was an expedition of the heart.
The Road Home
Reflections on a Journey Unmatched
As the sun dipped below the horizon on the final day, our engines quieted, helmets came off, and the profound journey we had embarked upon with Kevin Benavides ended. Each mile on this expedition was more than a path traveled; it was a testament to the spirit of adventure that calls to every rider. From the rugged beauty of Salta’s landscape to the adrenaline of mimicking a Dakar Rally stage, we challenged our limits and discovered new horizons within ourselves.
The laughter, the shared stories, and the mutual assistance when tackling a tricky section of the trail all contributed to a sense of community beyond the ride. We started as individuals united by our motorcycles and ended as a family bound by an unforgettable experience.
Host Rider
- Kevin Benavides – KTM 450 Rally Factory Racing
BTA Rider
- Mike de la Torre – KTM 790 Adventure R
Big Trail Argentina Staff
- Guille Marelli – Tour Master
- Pato Marelli – Tour Master
- Luchi Marelli – Marshall
- Machi Romanelli – Photographer
- Pablo Maier – Marshall / Mechanic
- Carlos Zeiss – Marshall / Mechanic
- Franco Marelli – Assistant / Support Vehicle / Media
- Gian Clavelino – Assistant / Support Vehicle / Media
Please note: The map provided in this article is for reference purposes only. For detailed and exact routes, we highly recommend contacting Big Trail Argentina at @bigtrailarg. They offer expert guidance and up-to-date information to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey.
We extend our heartfelt gratitude to Big Trail Argentina ( @bigtrailarg ) for their invaluable support in making this article possible. Special thanks are also due to Kevin Benavides (@kevinmaxbenavides) and Luciano Benavides (@l.benavides77) for their generous contributions and insights. Their expertise and experiences have been instrumental in bringing this story to life. We are deeply appreciative of their collaboration and the unique perspectives they provided.
Photos: Machi Romanelli – Words: Mike de la Torre
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