In the summer of 2023, I embarked on a journey that would take me through the heart and soul of Portugal, retracing old paths and discovering new ones. My ride was about connecting with the land, its people, and myself on a deeper level. Here, I share my story, hoping to inspire fellow riders to explore the beauty and depth of this country on two wheels.

My journey began with a map and a dream. I used Google Earth to sketch out a route, initially connecting points of interest with straight lines. These places I’d earmarked over the years as intriguing eventually wove into a detailed track comprising thousands of navigation points. This digital route was transferred to Wikiloc, my trusted companion for real-time navigation, mounted on my bike. My goal was to cover around 200km (about 124 miles) a day, ensuring a pace that allowed me to savor each moment, each view.

Gear and Packing

The Essentials of Motorcycle Touring

Preparing for a journey across Portugal on a motorcycle requires a spirit of adventure and a meticulous approach to packing. The challenge is to travel light and be fully equipped for every scenario—from basic repairs to spontaneous swims in inviting waters. Here’s a detailed look at how I organized my gear for this expedition, ensuring I had everything needed for comfort, convenience, and spontaneity.

My Constant Companion

My backpack is not just a storage space; it’s my lifeline. It houses critical items that I need at a moment’s notice. This includes personal documents essential for any traveler, a general utility knife, and a flashlight for those after-dark situations. A power bank, cables, and a phone charger ensure my devices are always powered up, vital for navigation and capturing the journey’s moments.

My first-aid kit is packed with essentials for minor medical needs to address cuts, scrapes, or basic ailments. A small towel, flip-flops, and swimming shorts are ever-ready for an impromptu dip in Portugal’s numerous water bodies. This setup underscores the balance between being prepared and embracing spontaneity, a core aspect of motorcycle touring.

The Campsite Essentials

One of my side bags is dedicated to camping necessities. It contains my tent, providing shelter after a day’s ride. A mattress and sleeping bag ensure a good night’s sleep, which is crucial for the next day’s journey. Rope and clips are ingeniously packed for hanging clothes to dry—a simple essential task on the road.

Personal Care and Comfort

The second side bag focuses on personal care and evening comfort. It holds clothes for the end of the day, allowing me to switch out of my riding gear and into something more comfortable. A hygiene bag with toiletries to freshen up, while a compact, portable chair offers a place to sit back and relax as you watch the sunset or enjoy the peacefulness of the great outdoors.

Sustenance on the Go

Mounted on the rear rack, the central bag is my mobile pantry and kitchen. It carries food supplies and cooking materials, including dishes, a stove, cutlery, coffee, jam, and canned goods—essentials for preparing small meals. This setup saves money and enriches the travel experience, allowing for meals in the most scenic locations.

I always carry enough food for at least two meals, typically bread and canned, ensuring I’m fueled for the journey ahead. Breakfast is often a tranquil affair next to the tent, while lunch is a simple meal on the go, taking advantage of local villages for a quick bite. Dinner, however, is when I indulge in the local cuisine, seeking restaurants near the campsite to savor traditional Portuguese dishes.

Preparedness for the Road

A tube on my bike holds tools for repairs and punctures, including wrenches, screwdrivers, patches, and an air pump, enabling independent handling of most roadside issues.

The Journey Begins

Day 1: 147 miles (238 km)

Leiria to Fraguinha

The first leg of the journey took us from Leiria, heading north through the Arunca River rice fields, then the cornfields of the Mondego River. We soon found ourselves amidst the vineyards of Bairrada, a region renowned for its sparkling wines, the Portuguese “Champagne.” By midday, we were ascending the Caramulo mountain range, traversing wide paths of the wind park before descending into the Vouga River valley. The day ended at the Fraguinha camping site, nestled at an altitude of 800m (2,625 ft). The distance covered encompassed kilometers and a transition through diverse landscapes that set the tone for the adventure ahead.

With its elevation, Fraguinha, a mountain gem, serves as a gateway to Portugal’s serene nature, offering breathtaking views and a peaceful ambiance. This remote camping site provided the perfect backdrop for our first night under the stars, where we prepared our own meal, surrounded by nature’s tranquility.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.

Advancing North

Day 2: 121 miles (196 km)

Fraguinha to Celorico de Basto

The second day dawned bright, and the mountains of the Gralheira Massif, known as the “Magical Mountains,” lay ahead. After crossing the Paiva River valley, we reached the Montemuro plateau. Here, we met another riding companion, and together, we descended into the Douro River valley, exploring villages rich in history and monuments. Crossing the Douro, we began the climb to Alto do Marão, a challenging ascent with loose stones testing my bike’s mettle. Yet, the reward was unparalleled views of the Marão and Alvão mountains, displaying the beauty and ruggedness of Portugal’s landscape. The day we have also reserved for us the company of wild horses near the sanctuary of Sra. da Graça, a mythical place of national cycling, before descending to the excellent Celorico de Basto campsite.

Celorico de Basto seamlessly blends nature and culture, offering an inviting campsite near the city that marries convenience with natural beauty. A short walk from this idyllic spot led us to a local restaurant, where indulging in traditional Portuguese cuisine became a highlight of our journey.