Riding the Edge

A 2,919-Mile Odyssey Across the Pyrenees and Bardenas Reales

Join Matt from Mulet Cycles on his enthralling 2,919-mile (4,700-kilometer) motorcycle voyage across the Pyrenees and into the mysterious Bardenas Reales desert. More than a mere travel account, Matt’s story is a vibrant narrative of resilience and discovery, epitomizing the essence of motorcycle exploration. His journey, brimming with unpredictability and trailblazing moments, vividly transports you into the heart of his adventure. Under starlit skies and through uncharted terrains, Matt’s rich storytelling captures the spirit of a true adventurer.

This narrative transcends mere motorcycling tales, appealing to anyone captivated by stories of adventure and the human spirit. Matt’s expedition through magnificent mountain passes, engaging encounters, and the serene beauty of nature is not just a ride; it’s an invitation to explore the bounds of imagination and personal adventurous aspirations. Embark on this exhilarating journey with Matt and discover the thrill of navigating the unknown.

For the second consecutive year, I set out with my tent and motorcycle to explore places I was unfamiliar with, or knew little about. My adventure began in Clermont-Ferrand, heading towards the Pyrenees, a land of rugged beauty and untamed wilderness that had always called to me.

After a catastrophic summer from a weather perspective, I was eager to head south to chase the sun. Unfortunately for me, the first day mirrored the past summer, with nearly 6 hours of rain during the 8 hours on the bike. Yet, each drop that hit my helmet was a reminder of the unpredictability of adventure – a challenge I was ready to embrace.

Despite the cold, rain, and fog, the roads of Auvergne and Cantal were always a delight to ride! From winding gorges to fiery mountain passes, I let my app (Calimoto) guide me, which never fails to find stunning routes. It was only by evening, amidst the vineyards north of Toulouse, that the sun finally broke through, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink, much to my pleasure!

With 264 miles (424 kilometers) covered on the first day under challenging conditions, the Road Trip was officially underway! The feeling of the open road, with all its freedom, was exhilarating.

On the second day, I reached Bagnère-de-Bigorre where I spent my first night camping, still under gloomy skies. Another day in the rain, but I had achieved my initial goal: I was in the tranquil Pyrenees, a place where the mountains whispered ancient secrets and the air carried a sense of deep calm.

 

The next day, I tackled a few mountain passes before crossing the Spanish border near Pas de L’Ours on five-star roads. A long day which culminated in setting up camp in Bardenas Reales de Navarro for a magical night! There’s something about camping under the stars, in the heart of nature, that rekindles the soul and connects you to the earth.

After a good night’s rest under the stars, I began exploring the desert, kickstarting my off-roading initiation in this idyllic setting! Endless straight roads to test speed, and winding trails to perfect wheel positioning… It was pure joy, a dance between machine and nature, each bend and straightaway a new step in an exhilarating rhythm.

The thrill being at its peak, I decided to spend another day exploring the park astride my Ténéré 700. By evening, I indulged in a hotel room for a much-needed shower and to charge my camera batteries, savoring the contrast between the rugged day and the comfort of a soft bed.

By this point, I had already covered about 932 miles (1,500 kilometers), with 310 miles (500 kilometers) off-road. My rear tire, having clocked 2,796 miles (4,500 kilometers), was visibly wearing out and needed replacement. It was a testament to the miles of memories already made.

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I headed to the Atlantic coast to test the T7 on the beach and find a new tire. Eventually, my journey led me south of Santander after a day full of surprises. Unexpected roads, mountain passes, a visit to Haro (the capital of the famous Spanish Rioja wine), and then the coast for a night by the ocean – each moment a story in itself.

The next morning, after enjoying my usual café au lait, I rode up the coast towards Biarritz in search of a new rear tire. With the fresh sea breeze and my hair in the wind, I encountered spectacular, breathtaking scenery! New, astonishing routes with mountain passes offering endless, panoramic vistas. However, the coast was crowded, and I soon missed the solitude of the desert and mountains. By evening, I set up my tent on a cliff’s edge to enjoy the serene view, but the wind picked up as soon as I established base camp, a stark reminder of nature’s ever-changing moods.

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Please note: The map provided in this article is for reference purposes only. For detailed and exact routes, we highly recommend contacting Big Trail Argentina at @bigtrailarg. They offer expert guidance and up-to-date information to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey.

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BTA Magazine September 2023

And remember: Don’t just collect miles, collect memories.

Photos: Matthieu Mougel – Words: Matthieu Mougel (Translation by Mike de la Torre)

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