Matt Mougel's Road to Morocco - Bike Travel Adventures Magazine

Morocco… There’s so much to say about this incredible country where the landscapes and trails are as varied as they are diverse. It’s the kind of place that provides feelings none of us have ever had while on a motorcycle. But let’s start from the beginning; we didn’t just snap our fingers and find ourselves there. Everything started in the spring of 2022 during a Maxi Trail ride in the Forez region, where Max, one of the project’s protagonists, suggested we go explore this country! Stars instantly appeared in my eyes as I envisioned myself in the middle of the desert atop my trusty steed, my T7. Weeks went by, and the project began to take shape. A third member, Tanguy, joined the team, making our idea to tread Moroccan soil increasingly tangible. In terms of organization, Max was tasked with mapping the route using various GPS tracks he’d acquired—a puzzling job to combine all the points of interest and unmissable off-road sections.

Tanguy assisted me in securing sponsors as we were planning a 21-day journey and needed quality gear to avoid complications. As for me, I’m Matt from Mulet Cycle! Specialized in two-wheel photography, I was responsible for capturing images and liaising with brands. Once our team was assembled and roles assigned, all that was left was to prep the bikes for the journey. And Max was our go-to guy! You see, he’s a mechanic at Yamaha in Clermont-Ferrand, making him our major asset in times of trouble. So, after a thorough check-up of all three bikes and a final review of the must-have checklist, we packed our bags independently.

The Departure

We had several options for reaching the southern tip of Spain. Traversing Spanish deserts for days to enjoy the off-road, taking back roads and cutting through the country from north to south… But one option quickly became obvious! Get south as fast as possible to catch the ferry, arrive in Morocco, and maximize our time there. So, we hit the road with our bikes loaded to the brim for 2 days and 1900 kilometers on the highway. Let’s not kid ourselves; even though it was for a good cause and the prize awaited us, it was quite dreadful. We had never ridden this much highway in our lives. But once we crossed the Strait of Gibraltar and mounted our knobby tires, the real adventure could finally begin. We landed in Tangier, and the culture shock was immediate! It was chaos on the roads, and people looked at us like aliens as we passed through the streets! After a quick stop to exchange some dirhams and devour our first tagine, we set off to confront the arid landscape.

Riding in Morocco

From the Rif Mountains to the High Atlas, from dunes to seashores, we were lucky enough to ride in countless astonishing places. We spent over 15 days there and covered more than 5000 kilometers, 70% of which were off-road—a pure, indescribable joy for the avid off-roaders that we are. And it was just a few kilometers out of Tangier that we hit our first trails, to our utmost delight! For the first time, we rode on sandy paths, learning to adapt to new sensations and control our T7s. Each bike had different tires, resulting in varying levels of comfort depending on the sections we rode through. While some were having the time of their lives, it was a sheer nightmare for others. Tire choice turned out to be one of the most crucial elements of this sort of adventure! Additionally, our bikes weighed a good 250 kilograms fully loaded, which presented another facet of the journey we had to get used to in the first few days. But let’s get back to what interests us most—the riding! As mentioned earlier, we started off tough on the sandy tracks of the Rif. But that’s not all. From one valley to another, both the scenery and the road surface could change dramatically. We could be riding on sand for tens of kilometers, then switch to concrete paths that urged us to let loose. Moreover, this part of the country has suffered from many wildfires in recent years, offering us landscapes as haunting as they are beautiful. We also revised the original route, which turned out to be more road-oriented than trail-oriented once we arrived. Fitted with Michelin’s Desert Race tires, it was out of the question for me to wear them out on asphalt when so many other possibilities awaited us. So, thanks to the OsmAnd app, we rewrote the route on a daily basis. And to my surprise, it was a breeze. The app is straightforward to use, and creating point-to-point routes proved to be a quick and effective solution.

From the Blue City to the Middle Atlas

After another night camping in the heights of Chefchaouen (the Blue City), we followed our new route filled with rolling scenery. That day, we had our first encounter with locals… Indeed, after several kilometers on smaller roads, our new route led us to a very particular valley. We’ll call it “The Herbal Tea Valley” for the occasion. As you may know, this region of Morocco is very poor, and herbal tea is one of the few sources of income for most inhabitants. So, after riding for a few minutes in this valley, we met a worker with whom we chatted. Initially suspicious, he quickly warmed up and soon invited us for lunch. It was an opportunity for us to better understand the situation of people living in this region and also to eat for the first time in a local home. Bread dipped in olive oil, eggs, and a watermelon from the garden—a simple meal that set the tone for many similar ones to come! But let me assure you, the hospitality of Moroccans is not a myth, and they proved it to us throughout the trip. That day also marked our first real opportunity to wash up; after three days without a proper shower, we were starting to smell quite “earthy.” And it was by a river downstream from one of the country’s largest dams (Al Wahda) that we could fulfill this wish. It was also an opportunity to wash our clothes, as we had only brought four outfits each. Ahah, I see where your thoughts are going! But space on the bikes was truly limited. Between clothing, miscellaneous parts and tools, camping essentials, a week’s worth of dehydrated food, and several liters of water, we were loaded to the brim! For the record, each bike had between 80 and 95 liters of storage, plus some accessories like a soft 6-liter jerrycan. As for me, I carried an additional 6 kilograms on my back containing my photography equipment—enough to give my neck and shoulders a good workout. We then headed to the Middle Atlas to gain some altitude! The clouds had been following us for a few days, and we were now in fog and cold. The weather conditions could change very quickly from one massif to another. But no matter, we were prepared for the worst conditions. So it was with astonishment that we drove on wet roads full of puddles. But given the scenery that surrounded us, even snow wouldn’t have bothered us. The mountains were magnificent and nature breathtaking! This region was unanimously our favorite part of the trip. So much so that we returned later in our journey for another good dose of magic. We also saw countless wild monkeys in this region. Personally, I didn’t expect this kind of spectacle, and it was an indescribable joy to be able to approach and photograph them. And like the landscapes, Morocco is also full of all kinds of animals. From wild dogs trying to jump into your wheels as you pass by, to countless stray cats that you have to feed during meal breaks, or even the poor donkeys tethered along the roads… it was often heartbreaking for me to see them like that. There were also camels, one of the emblems of the desert, and surprisingly, maybe a wild boar or warthog! We didn’t have much time to see it in detail; it jumped between my wheels and Tanguy’s as we were heading to the bivouac at night! A split second where we both saw ourselves in the ditch, caught by this hormone-inflated creature!

From Merzouga to the Algerian border, to White Beach, and Taroudants

After a few days spent in the cold mountains, where we experienced hail and rain, we took the road to Merzouga! This day was the hardest in terms of temperature change, with a departure at 6 degrees in the mountains and an arrival at 38 in the dunes. It took us a while to acclimate, but we were in Merzouga, and the spectacle was grandiose despite the gray veil covering the sky. After unloading the bikes, we tried to ride in the sand. But contrary to what you see on the internet, it wasn’t that easy. Fortunately, we still enjoyed it for a few hours to prepare for the days ahead. And it was after a good night at the hotel to recharge and relax a bit that we were able to start our desert crossing. Because yes, after a week of camping, we really needed a good night in a bed and a shower too! For those who don’t follow us on social media, we spent 18 out of 21 days on this trip in a tent. Coupled with long riding days of about 300 kilometers, it was really exhausting in the long run. But let’s get back on track! It was now time for endless plains and sandbanks that were as tricky as they were fun! And after spending a good part of the day between speed bursts and struggles in the dunes, the end of the journey almost came for me! These vast plains were magnificent and the ground very rideable. So much so that after a few hours, we no longer realized the speed at which we were going. Sometimes holes, sometimes bumps, but never anything too surprising except for the suspensions that could bottom out. Then came this section of huge whoops, you know, the ones you find on supercross tracks! Probably due to a lapse of attention on my part, I went into it at over 80 km/h… This caused my handlebars to wobble, and I literally flew off the bike. Thankfully, I got up instantly, completely excited by the adrenaline of the moment. I was fine, but my Ténéré had suffered: broken front cowl, bent handlebars, torn saddlebags, and more… It was already late afternoon, and we had to move quickly to the next town to repair the bike and resume our journey.