The thrill of the open road and the promise of adventure guided us on a journey with Honda’s Africa Twin Adventure Sports ES DCT and Transalp XL750, starting in New York City and leading into the heart of the Northeast Backcountry Discovery Route (NE BDR). This ride was about more than just reaching a destination; it was about embracing the roads less traveled, building camaraderie, and creating unforgettable moments. From navigating Vermont’s twisty backroads to tackling New Hampshire’s rugged trails, we encountered rain-soaked mornings, scenic vistas, and the excitement of the Touratech DirtDaze Rally. This adventure became a celebration of freedom and the exhilaration of exploring the world on two wheels, all while testing the capabilities of Honda’s latest machines.

Gearing Up and Heading Out

When two seasoned riders get a chance to test Honda’s latest beasts—the Africa Twin Adventure Sports ES DCT and the Transalp XL750—you don’t just say yes; you pack your bags, lace up your Tech 7 Enduro Boots, and start plotting routes like you’re about to lead a cavalry charge. And that’s precisely what we did.

Our journey started in the bustling heart of New York City, where the skyscrapers may have tried to intimidate us, but we were too busy getting lost in the anticipation of what lay ahead. We chose to set up camp at the Hotel Giraffe, a chic little oasis in the middle of Manhattan that manages to feel like a slice of calm amidst the city’s endless rush. The staff there, bless them, didn’t bat an eye as we hauled in gear that looked more suited for a military operation than a weekend getaway.

Before diving into the ride, we had to tackle the gear— let’s face it, there’s no such thing as over-preparing when you’re about to take on the NE BDR (Northeast Backcountry Discovery Route). The plan was simple: spend an entire day in the city, organize everything, and head upstate to Beacon, NY, where our bikes awaited us.

We had meticulously planned our route for weeks, with the NE BDR as the backbone of our journey. But knowing us, sticking to the beaten path was never enough. We scoured Google Earth and the RISER App, searching for the curviest, most scenic roads that would take us from the chaos of New York to the tranquility of Vermont. This wasn’t just about getting from point A to point B; it was about embracing every twist and turn, every stretch of dirt road that would put Honda’s new machines to the test. Rob Doyle, an old friend and fellow rider, was prepping the bikes for us at Ed’s garage in Beacon, ensuring we’d be ready to roll out in style by the time we arrived.

The gear, naturally, was a mix of tried-and-true essentials and a few shiny new toys we couldn’t resist testing out. For storage, we equipped the Africa Twin with Giant Loop’s DIABLO TANK BAG™ and SISKIYOU PANNIERS™—both promised to keep our stuff dry, even if the weather didn’t cooperate. The Transalp got the BUCKIN’ ROLL TANK BAG™ and COYOTE SADDLEBAG™, perfect for staying light and agile on the more challenging trails. Both bikes also carried a KLAMATH TAIL RACK PACK™, our go-to for tools and spare parts, ensuring we were prepared for whatever the road threw. Our personal gear was equally top-notch; Alpinestars had us covered from head to toe with their Monteira Drystar® XF Jacket and pants, the Ardent 3In1 Adventure Touring set, and the rock-solid Tech 7 Enduro Boots, and to keep our ideas contained, the fantastic Supertech M10 Flood helmets. We couldn’t help but feel invincible with the new CARDO Packtalk Pro system integrated into our M10s, which ensured we’d never miss a beat—or a witty comment—along the way.

One of the key things we wanted to capture on this trip was the vibrant scenery and the unique light of the late summer season. We chose the new Sigma FP L mirrorless full-frame camera, a serious piece of kit with 61 megapixels that could capture every leaf and every drop of sweat. We paired it with a trio of lenses—16-28mm, 28-70mm, and 70-200mm—covering all the bases from wide-angle landscapes to intimate action shots. For protection, we stashed it all in a ThinkTank Backlight backpack, which gave us peace of mind that our gear would survive the rigors of the ride.

After a morning of last-minute packing and double-checking everything on our seemingly endless checklist, it was time to leave the city. We hopped on a train bound for Beacon, a small town up the Hudson River that would be our launchpad for the adventure. The train ride was a mix of quiet reflection and shared excitement; we talked about the routes we’d take, the challenges we’d face, and—inevitably—the bikes themselves. The view outside the window gradually shifted from towering buildings to the rolling hills and thick forests that would soon be our playground.

Arriving in Beacon felt like stepping into a different world. Gone were the honking horns and towering buildings, replaced by quiet streets, local shops, and the distant hum of the Hudson. We walked through town, savoring the calm before the storm, knowing that we’d be swapping these serene streets for dirt trails and winding backroads in a few hours.

Rob was waiting for us at Beacon’s train station, and after a quick drive to Ed’s garage, we saw the bikes and knew this was going to be something special. The Africa Twin and Transalp were prepped, polished, and ready to roar. Rob, ever the perfectionist, had tuned them to perfection, ensuring every throttle twist would respond like a well-honed blade. After a quick reunion and a rundown of the final checks, it was time to gear up and hit the road.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.

With the excitement of the trip ahead, we rushed through the final preparations, eager to get the bikes loaded and start the adventure. Our carefully prepared checklist was in the back of our minds, but the thrill of the open road was too strong to resist. It was all hands on deck, securing gear, adjusting straps, and making last-minute decisions. In our haste, we barely noticed a small, essential backpack left sitting on a bench—a detail that would come back to haunt us later.

As we mounted the bikes, the reality of the journey ahead started to sink in. The NE BDR route stretched out before us like an unwritten story, full of potential and promise. We had the machines, the gear, and the route. All that was left was to fire up the engines and see where the road would take us.

With a twist of the throttle, we left Beacon behind, the engines’ roar echoing off the garage walls as we set out on what promised to be one hell of an adventure. The city was a distant memory now, replaced by the open road and the thrill of the unknown. As the first miles ticked away, the excitement of what lay ahead overshadowed any lingering doubts or second thoughts. We were finally on our way.

This was it—the start of something unforgettable.

The Ride to West Dover

Twists, Turns, and a Few Forgotten Essentials

By the time we finally rolled out of Ed’s garage, it was already past midday, with the sun high in the sky and our engines rumbling. I was on the Honda Transalp, Mike on the Africa Twin, and Rob had joined us on a Honda CB500X, ready to ride alongside for the entire journey. Ed and his brother Rusty, both veterans of these roads, decided to join us for the first leg of the trip. Chris, meanwhile, followed close behind in the new 2025 Honda Ridgeline, with a CRF 300L strapped in the back—just in case we got the itch for some severe dirt action.

Ed, a master of the local terrain, took the lead, guiding us through a series of winding roads that seemed to have been designed with motorcycles in mind. The sun was just beginning its descent as we cruised through the lush, green forests of upstate New York. About 30 miles in, we crossed a stunning bridge over the Hudson River—a picture-perfect spot if ever there was one. I tapped my CARDO and told Mike, “This would be a killer place for some photos. You’ve got the ThinkTank backpack with the camera, right?”

The silence that followed wasn’t the response I was hoping for.

“Nope,” Mike replied, “I thought you had it.”

We pulled over in a safe spot, and after a quick check with the rest of the group, it became painfully clear that our camera was still back at Ed’s garage, locked up with the other gear we’d left behind. So much for following our carefully crafted checklist. With a mix of frustration and sheepish laughter, we turned around and headed back to retrieve the backpack. It was our first mistake on the trip, but it wouldn’t be the last.

With the camera finally in hand and our spirits slightly dampened but not defeated, we set off once again, winding our way through the scenic roads of New York. The forest around us was a perfect blend of greens, with the setting sun filtering through the leaves, creating a kaleidoscope of shadows and light. It was the kind of scene that made you feel grateful to be on two wheels, feeling every curve of the road and every change in the air.

And then, just as we got back into the groove, Ed’s bike started wobbling. We pulled over, and sure enough, he’d picked up a flat. We gathered around to assess the situation, only to realize that, in our rush to depart, we had tossed the flat tire kit into the Honda Ridgeline with Chris, who had taken a more direct route to our destination for the day. A classic BMW motorcycle pulled beside us when we thought we might be stranded. Its rider, Phil, was enjoying a sunset ride when he saw us struggling.

“Need a hand?” he asked with a grin.

Phil was more than just a friendly rider; he had a flat tire kit at home. Without missing a beat, he offered to ride back to his place to grab it. A short while later, Phil returned with the kit and helped us fix the puncture. Problem solved. We were back on the road, but only after we thanked Phil did we learn he runs a company producing beautiful screens for classic motorcycles. If you’re in the market, check out his website at Renn-Shield.com—because if he’s half as meticulous about his products as he was about helping us out, you won’t be disappointed.

With the sun now dipping below the horizon, Ed and Rusty decided to head back home. The rest of us pressed on, crossing into Vermont as darkness began to fall. The roads through the Catskills were nothing short of spectacular, with every turn revealing another stunning view of rolling hills and dense forests. It was the kind of ride that makes you forget about time, the miles slipping away as you lose yourself in the rhythm of the road.

We arrived at The Kitzhof Inn in West Dover, VT, under a blanket of stars. Chris, having taken a faster route, was already waiting for us. His Ridgeline was parked out front, with the CRF 300L still looking pristine in the back. After a long day on the road, we wasted no time heading to the Dover Bar & Grill for a hearty meal. We filled the evening with laughter and stories, each of us recounting the day’s events—the excitement, the missteps, and the camaraderie from sharing the road. Then, it was straight to bed, with the promise of another full day ahead.

Throughout the day, I’d had the pleasure of riding the Transalp, and it didn’t disappoint. It brought back memories of the original Transalp from the nineties, a bike I rode on many a long journey with old friends. The new Transalp is just as capable, if not more so—a machine that’s as comfortable on the highway as carving through winding roads. Despite the load it carried in the Giant Loop SISKIYOU PANNIERS™, and the other accessories we’d added, it remained surprisingly agile and responsive, making it a joy to ride. For those interested in a deeper dive into the Transalp’s performance and features, check out our full review of the XL750 Transalp in the June/July 2023 edition of BTA Magazine.

The following day, we woke to the smell of a delicious breakfast wafting through the inn. The Kitzhof Inn is a hidden gem, a favorite among riders for its welcoming atmosphere and prime location. Some of the best roads in the region are just a stone’s throw away, and we were eager to hit them. This time, we swapped bikes—Mike took the Transalp, and I hopped on the Africa Twin. The moment I settled into the saddle, I could feel the difference. The Africa Twin is a force of nature with raw power ready to take on anything the road—or the trail—throws at it.

With our bellies full and our spirits high, we packed up and prepared to continue our journey. Ahead lay more miles, more adventures, and, hopefully, fewer forgotten essentials. But no matter what the day would bring, we knew one thing: we were exactly where we wanted to be, with the road ahead and the promise of more stories.

Scenic Roads and the

Touratech DirtDaze Rally

The second day of our journey began with the promise of epic roads and the thrill of reaching our final destination: the Touratech DirtDaze Rally in Haverhill, New Hampshire. After a solid night’s rest at The Kitzhof Inn, we were ready to hit the road again, our bikes primed for the 125-mile ride ahead.

We started the day by heading north on Vermont Route 100, one of the state’s most scenic byways. The morning air was crisp, and the road wound through endless stretches of green, the landscape a patchwork of rolling hills and dense forests. As we cruised, we couldn’t help but marvel at the sheer beauty of the surroundings—this was what motorcycle riding was all about.

Roughly an hour into the ride, we turned onto Route 30 at East Jamaica, a brief but stunning stretch that led us to Windham Hill Road. Here, the road began to climb, offering spectacular views of the valleys below. We followed Route 11, then 103 North, enjoying the twists and turns that kept us engaged and the scenery that seemed straight out of a postcard. Each curve revealed another breathtaking view, and the roads themselves were a rider’s dream—smooth, winding, and just challenging enough to keep things interesting.

Our route eventually brought us to Woodstock, VT, a town that seemed to embody the very essence of New England charm. We decided to take a break, parking our bikes in the center of town and wandering through its picturesque streets. The town was a blend of historic buildings, quaint shops, and tree-lined avenues, all bathed in the warm glow of the late summer sun. We grabbed a quick snack and took a moment to soak it all in, marking Woodstock as a must-return spot in our RISER App before we continued our journey.

From Woodstock, we hit the road again, weaving through more of Vermont’s finest routes. Each mile brought new sights—pristine lakes, old farmhouses, and endless forests in every imaginable shade of green. The wildlife areas we passed, like Clover Hill and Thetford Hill State Park, were teeming with life, adding to the sense that we were riding through a living, breathing painting. As we approached Haverhill, we followed US Route 5 North, a beautiful stretch of road alongside the Connecticut River, offering views that could distract even the most focused rider.

By mid-afternoon, we rolled into the North Haverhill Fairgrounds, the site of the Touratech DirtDaze Rally. The energy in the air was palpable as the HONDA team greeted us. Their truck was already set up, and the demo bikes were gleaming under the sun. It was clear from the outset that this would be an event to remember.

We parked our bikes alongside the other models on display and headed straight for Christian Dutcher, the man behind the magic of the DirtDaze Rally. Christian was everywhere at once, ensuring everything was running smoothly and everyone—whether seasoned veterans or first-timers—felt welcome. Around us, riders were arriving in waves, some setting up tents for the night, others diving straight into the clinics on offer. The atmosphere was pure excitement, with groups of riders swapping stories, gearing up for test rides, or simply soaking in the event’s vibe.

The day’s highlight was the time I spent on the Africa Twin. I’d been skeptical about the Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT), wondering if it might detract from the pure riding experience. But from the moment I twisted the throttle, those doubts vanished. The Africa Twin was a beast, but a well-mannered one, with enough power to handle any challenge yet smooth and controlled enough to make every ride a joy. The DCT system was nothing short of revolutionary—it allowed me to focus entirely on the ride, letting the bike handle the shifting with an almost magical seamlessness. And when I wanted more control, I could easily switch to manual mode, using the two levers on the left handlebar to shift gears—up with my index finger and down with my thumb—without ever taking my hands off the grips. It offered the best of both worlds: the ease of an automatic with the feel and performance of a manual tailored to my preferences. By the end of the day, I was sold—this bike could do it all. For a deeper dive into the Africa Twin’s capabilities, check out our full review in the March/April 2024 edition of BTA Magazine.

As the day wound down and the sun dipped below the horizon, we made our way back to our hotel. The anticipation of a hot bath and a hearty meal was almost as intense as the satisfaction of a well-done day. Dinner that night was a celebration filled with stories of the day’s ride, shared laughs, and camaraderie that only a great ride can foster. We recounted our favorite moments, from the winding roads of Vermont to the unexpected pleasure of the Africa Twin’s DCT.

As we finally called it a night, the excitement for what lay ahead still buzzed in the air. We had arrived at the Touratech DirtDaze Rally, ready for whatever the next day would bring. And after a day like this, we knew we were in for something unique.

A Day of Fun and Camaraderie

at the Touratech

DirtDaze Rally

After a thrilling ride to the Touratech DirtDaze Rally, we dedicated the next day to enjoying the event and soaking up everything it had to offer. The North Haverhill Fairgrounds were buzzing with energy, with riders from all over converging to celebrate their shared passion for adventure riding. It was a chance to test out some more bikes, share our experiences, and connect with like-minded riders.

Our day kicked off with a demo ride organized by the HONDA team. Mike, always the one to chase a bit more horsepower, jumped at the chance to test the new CRF450RL, while I opted for the CRF 300L Rally—a bike that felt like it was built for the kind of gravel roads we were about to tackle. The Honda guides led us through a series of winding gravel paths that seemed tailor-made for these machines, and for about an hour, it was nothing but pure riding bliss. The CRF 300L Rally was nimble and responsive, gliding over the gravel with ease and making every turn a joy. Mike, meanwhile, was having a blast on the 450, but I could see him itching to pop a wheelie. It took every ounce of his self-control—and a few stern looks from the guides—to keep both wheels on the ground. We all had a good laugh about it afterward, though I’m pretty sure Mike was still secretly plotting his next move.

Later in the day, we had the opportunity to share our passion for motorcycle travel with the rally attendees. We hosted a seminar about riding in South America, drawing on our many adventures in the region, especially in Patagonia. The audience was engaged, full of questions about the best routes, gear recommendations, and the unique challenges of riding in such a diverse and beautiful part of the world. Seeing so much interest was great; we even had motorcycle travel celebrities like @RosieGabrielle expressing their intent to visit the region soon. The seminar was a fantastic way to connect with fellow riders, exchange stories, and build new friendships that we knew would last long after the rally.

Throughout the day, our bikes and their gear grabbed plenty of attention, especially those curious about the setup we had chosen for our long-distance journey. Riders and gearheads alike stopped by to chat, particularly interested in the Giant Loop panniers and saddlebags that had proven their worth on the road so far. Our Alpinestars gear also turned heads—especially the distinctive squish-clomp of our Tech 7 Enduro boots, a sound that’s a mix of stiff leather and rugged durability, something the company should consider trademarking. That unmistakable noise echoed through the seminar room as we presented in full riding gear, adding a bit of extra flair to the event.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, we found ourselves surrounded by new friends, toasting the day’s adventures and the spirit of the rally. It was the kind of day that epitomized motorcycle travel—exploring new places, pushing your limits, and forging lasting connections with fellow riders who share your passion for the open road.

Tackling the NE BDR

From Haverhill to Woodstock

The morning air was crisp as we rose early to bid farewell to Chris, who was headed back with the Ridgeline. It was a bittersweet moment—losing the comfort of having a support truck capable of tackling the same rough terrains as our bikes and, more importantly, seeing a friend depart from the adventure. Chris had become an integral part of our crew, and the Ridgeline had been a reassuring presence, especially when we found ourselves in a pinch. But the moment of melancholy didn’t last long. We had miles of dirt and gravel ahead, and first, we needed to figure out how to fit everything in the truck onto our bikes.

Thankfully, our trusty Giant Loop panniers and saddlebags had more space than anticipated. With a bit of creative packing and some good-natured grumbling, we managed to get everything loaded up. We turned on our CARDOs, zipped up our Alpinestars jackets and pants, shut the ventilations to ward off the morning chill, and fired up the engines. The next stretch of our journey was set to be one of the most epic yet—the fabled NE BDR (North East Backcountry Discovery Route). We mapped the route in our RISER App, and with a shared nod of anticipation, we were ready to dive into the heart of Vermont’s backcountry. Dirt, here we come.

Our destination for the day was Woodstock, VT, a charming town we had vowed to return to. But first, we had to navigate the rugged beauty of the NE BDR. We took a short ride to Woodsville and picked up the BDR route that the dedicated team at Backcountry Discovery Routes had meticulously crafted and shared with the adventure-riding community. Their work—mapping out these hidden gems of the American landscape and making them accessible to riders like us—is incredible. They deserve every bit of admiration and support from our community.

As soon as we hit the BDR route, the gravel roads welcomed us into a sea of green—endless woods that seemed to stretch to the horizon, where isolated farms nestled like secrets in the landscape. The scenery was nothing short of cinematic, with each turn offering a new masterpiece painted by nature. It was the kind of beauty that demanded to be captured, and our SIGMA FP L camera, ever at the ready, became our trusted companion in this visual feast. Every snap of the shutter immortalized the vibrant greens and sweeping vistas, turning fleeting moments into lasting memories. We passed through small towns like Newbury and East Corinth, where time seemed to move at a different rhythm, dictated more by the seasons than the clock. The dirt roads led us through places like Cookville and the Washington Forest, and we skirted past Chelsea, VT, each mile offering fresh challenges for our bikes and new vistas for the lens.

The route was a dream for any adventure rider—endless hills, winding roads, dense woods, and just enough obstacles to keep things interesting. The weather couldn’t have been better. The late summer sun was warm, almost hot, when we were standing still, but the moment we got moving, the breeze rushed past us, cooling us down and making the ride an absolute pleasure. Our gear ventilations were wide open, allowing the fresh air to flow through, refreshing us like a natural air conditioner as we tackled the curves and climbs of Vermont’s backcountry.

One of the day’s highlights was crossing the wooden bridge at Brookfield. The bridge spanned a serene pond, where a group of girls, enjoying the last days of summer in their bikinis, cheered us on as we rode by. We all shared a laugh over the CARDOs, agreeing that it genuinely couldn’t have been a better day. Moments like these, when everything just clicks—the scenery, the weather, the brotherhood—remind you why you ride.

The road continued to twist and turn, following the contours of the land as we passed through forests and along rivers. We rode past the Vermont Forest Cemetery, its ancient headstones standing sentinel amidst the trees, a reminder of the deep history woven into these hills. We then rode through Warren and entered the Breadloaf Wilderness, a vast expanse of untouched natural beauty that felt like a world. The road through this reserve was a joy to ride—challenging in places but always rewarding, with the views that make you want to stop and soak it all in.

Exiting the wilderness, we found ourselves in Hancock, a small town that seemed to appear out of nowhere, nestled between the mountains. From there, we continued through Stockbridge and Barnard, two more picturesque Vermont towns, before finally touching down in West Woodstock. The final stretch to our destination, Stay at Jimmy’s B&B, was just a few minutes away. As we rolled into Woodstock, tired but exhilarated, we knew we’d just completed one of the best rides of our trip.

Woodstock greeted us with its familiar charm, a fitting end to a day filled with dirt, dust, and the pure joy of adventure riding. This town was unique—every house was perfectly maintained, with manicured gardens that seemed to bloom just for us. The streets were lined with high-end shops and enticing restaurants, centered around a beautiful park, and a picturesque wooden bridge spanned the river. It was where everything seemed to be just right, a blend of New England charm and understated luxury that immediately made us feel at home.

Our stay for the night was at “Stay at Jimmy’s,” an incredible B&B just two blocks from the town center. I can confidently say it’s one of the best, if not the best, B&Bs I’ve ever visited. Built in a fully renovated classic house, each room was designed with exquisite attention to detail. From the super comfortable bed and cozy seating area to thoughtful amenities like fresh fruit, a Nespresso machine, and an epic shower, everything was top-notch. After unpacking our gear—thankfully, the panniers had more than enough space—we settled in for the night, appreciating the comfort and luxury that “Stay at Jimmy’s” provided after a long day on the road.

We had ridden through some of the most beautiful and challenging landscapes Vermont has to offer, and every mile had been worth it. Tomorrow would bring new roads and new adventures, but for now, we were content to rest, knowing we were in one of the most beautiful places on earth, with the promise of more to come.

A Day of Wrong Turns and Right Roads

The morning at “Stay at Jimmy’s” started in the most serene way possible. After a night of deep, well-deserved sleep, we discovered that Jimmy wasn’t just a B&B host but also an expert yoga instructor. So, with the sun just beginning to warm the day, we decided to stretch out the kinks from the previous day’s ride in Jimmy’s yoga studio. A bit of downward dog and some sun salutations were just what we needed to prepare for the day ahead. Feeling limber and refreshed, we moved to the back patio for a fantastic breakfast, surrounded by the quiet beauty of Jimmy’s garden. Meanwhile, the Transalp and Africa Twin were parked outside, practically vibrating with anticipation, as if they knew what lay ahead—miles of dirt roads and the kind of riding that makes you forget about everything else.

With our gear packed and our bellies full, we fired up the engines and left Woodstock, ready to tackle the next stretch of the NE BDR. The gravel and dirt roads that define this region felt like an old friend by now—familiar, yet always full of surprises. But even old friends can lead you astray, as we found out after taking a wrong turn and ending up in Woodstock. We all laughed, knowing there were worse problems than enjoying a second helping of one of the best parts of the BDR. So, we retraced our tracks, taking Vermont Route 100A and Hale Hollow Road, which plunged us deep into the forest to Plymouth, VT. Here, we rejoined the smooth curves of Vermont Route 100—a welcome stretch of tarmac before diving back into the dirt.

We wound our way through the lush Vermont landscape, taking Route 103 South from Grahamville, where the Okemo Mountain Resort reigns over the hills. Then, we veered left toward the Star Lake Wildlife Management Area. We had grand plans to explore one of the unmaintained roads of the NE BDR, but as we rolled into the mud and rough terrain, it became clear that this was more suitable for a lighter, more agile bike like the CRF 300L Rally or Mike’s beloved CRF450RL. As much as we love a challenge, we decided to save our heavily loaded adventure bikes from an unnecessary mud bath. However, if you plan to explore this area with a motorcycle built for pure off-road madness, this spot is a playground waiting to be discovered.

Continuing on, we passed through Danby and into the breathtaking landscapes of Big Branch Wilderness and Peru Peak Wilderness. The dirt roads here were magical—winding through waterfalls, crossing rivers, and slicing through mountains. Every bend in the road revealed a new vista, and every mile seemed to pull us deeper into a rider’s paradise. Eventually, the road led us out of the wilderness at Landgrove, and we pointed our bikes south toward Londonderry, with Chester, VT, as our goal for the night.

The ride was so captivating, so deeply satisfying, that we lost all sense of time, completely immersed in the rhythm of the road. The Africa Twin and Transalp made every mile feel like a dance, with each turn and twist pulling us deeper into the heart of the landscape. It wasn’t until we paused for a break that we realized we had overshot our exit to Chester by a full hour. But when the roads are this inviting, and the bikes beneath you respond like extensions of your spirit, doubling back isn’t a chore—it’s a second chance to savor the ride. And so, with a shared grin, we eagerly backtracked, knowing that the Africa Twin and Transalp would carry us through every curve and climb with the same effortless grace, making each moment as unforgettable as the first.

As we finally rolled into Chester, Nate, the innkeeper at Franklin Farm Inn, was waiting for us with a warm welcome and a big smile. The inn, a historic building, turned into a charming hotel, and it immediately felt like home. Surrounded by acres of lush green fields, with a perfectly cultivated garden and a serene pond, the Franklin Farm Inn was the perfect place to unwind after a long day on the road. The classic architecture, creaking floors, and rich history of the place added to its charm, making it feel like we’d stepped back in time.

But we weren’t ready to call it a day just yet. Still buzzing from the day’s ride, we decided to jump back on the bikes and use the super-curvy feature on our RISER App to find the best roads to Weston, VT, where we planned to visit the famous Vermont Country Store. With our Alpinestars Tech 7 Enduro boots still on, adding that signature squish with every step, and engines still warm, we hit the road again.

Weston, a tiny town seemingly lost in time, welcomed us with open arms. The Vermont Country Store, built in 1881, was like a time capsule of American history. Packed with everything you could imagine, it has served the community for over a century. The store’s general manager was more than happy to share stories about the town’s history, and we were surprised to learn that Weston is home to one of the country’s top summer theaters. The Weston Playhouse, discovered in the 1930s, has since become a cultural destination, drawing visitors from all over for its performances. We couldn’t resist spending some time in the beautiful park at the town’s center, where live music often fills the air.

After this delightful detour, we jumped back on the dirt roads, letting our GPS app guide us to the most fun and twisty routes back to Chester. The day had been another dream for any adventure rider, filled with unexpected discoveries and the sheer joy of being on two wheels. We capped it off with a well-deserved dinner at MacLaomainn’s Scottish Pub, where the beer was cold, the food was hearty, and the company was unbeatable. Laughter and stories flowed as easily as the pints, the perfect ending to another epic day on the road.

A Rainy Farewell

to an Epic Adventure

On the final morning of our journey, we awoke to the soothing sound of heavy rain drumming against the roof of Franklin Farm Inn. It was the kind of rain that tempts you to stay in bed, wrapped in warm blankets, savoring the comfort of a good night’s sleep. But the irresistible aroma of breakfast wafting from the kitchen had me out of bed in no time, only to find Mike and Rob already at the dining table, forks and knives ready to tackle a hearty homemade breakfast.

The rain presented us with a new challenge for the day, but we weren’t about to let a little water dampen our spirits. After a quick check of our radar app to track the storm’s path, Rob suggested a clever strategy: we’d head west, riding through the storm towards a break in the clouds, then turn south and ride that sliver of good weather to Mount Greylock—our final destination for the day. With that plan in mind, we prepared for a wet day on the road.

Keeping our clothes and gear dry was our top priority. Thankfully, with their exceptional dry bags, the Giant Loop panniers and saddlebags proved their worth once again—not a single drop of water made it inside. The tank bags, too, kept everything perfectly dry. For our attire, Mike opted to attach the waterproof layer to his Ardent 3-in-1 jacket, which turned out to be flawless in the rain. I chose to rely on my Monteira Drystar® XF set, which handled the downpour without the need for any extra layers. Confident in our gear, we were ready to face the storm head-on.

We decided to skip the BDR dirt roads in favor of a more direct route west, following Vermont Route 11 W. Despite the rain, this scenic road, which hugs the Williams Middle Branch River, offered endless curves and breathtaking views. The bikes switched to rain mode and handled the slick roads easily, and even in the downpour, the ride was still delightful. After passing through Simonsville, we continued west on Route 11, and as predicted, the rain began to taper off. By the time we reached Londonderry, the clouds had lightened, the rain was behind us, and we were riding comfortably in the eye of the storm. We hopped back onto our beloved Vermont Route 100 with renewed spirits, heading south.

The ride down Route 100 was a dream—a perfect stretch of tarmac winding its way through the lush, green Vermont landscape. At Rawsonville, we turned left onto Vermont Route 30 and continued south, making our way to East Jamaica, VT, where we rejoined Route 100 S. The stretch of road between East Jamaica and Wilmington was nothing short of epic. The three bikes flowed through each curve in perfect harmony, slicing through the verdant landscape as we followed the river. The bikes felt like extensions of ourselves, effortlessly responding to every twist and turn, making the ride feel both natural and exhilarating.

After Wilmington, we picked up Route 9 and followed a series of small towns and winding roads as we made our way toward Mount Greylock. The weather window began to close as heavy clouds gathered overhead once more, and a light rain accompanied us as we approached the entrance to Mount Greylock State Reservation.

Mount Greylock State Reservation is a place of natural beauty and historical significance. As the highest point in Massachusetts, it’s a key stop along the Appalachian Trail, which runs 2,100 miles (3,380 km) from Georgia to Maine. The trail attracts thousands of hikers each year, though only a few hundred manage to complete the entire route. Massachusetts’ 90-mile section is maintained by the Appalachian Mountain Club and volunteers who ensure this iconic trail remains accessible to adventurers worldwide.

We began our ascent on the narrow, winding road that snakes its way up to the summit, twisting around cliffs and through dense forests as it climbs higher and higher. As we rode, we gradually entered the clouds, visibility dropping with each passing mile. The thick mist and the slow pace of the road gave the journey an almost mystical feel as if we were riding into another world. At the summit, the Bascom Lodge appeared out of the fog, its stone walls and timber frame standing resolute against the elements—a scene straight out of a fantasy novel.

Peter, the property manager for the past 15 years, was waiting for us with a warm welcome. He had prepared the best room in the lodge for us—Room #9, a rider’s dream. It had a cozy fireplace and an inviting atmosphere, and it also featured a secondary entrance that led directly to our bikes’ parking. This made unpacking and packing a breeze, especially with the weather still threatening outside.

As we parked our bikes and made our way through the swirling clouds into the lodge, we couldn’t help but notice a bronze plaque at the entrance. It reads:

Rest for the Weary

Bascom Lodge has welcomed hikers, skiers, and sunrise-seekers since its completion in 1938. Designed by Pittsfield architect Joseph McArthur Vance, the lodge was built by Civilian Conservation Corps enrollees with stone and lumber harvested from Greylock’s slopes. Its name honors John Bascom, an early Greylock Reservation Commissioner who was a prominent advocate for constructing a fine summit house.

While this plaque didn’t mention riders, Bascom Lodge is the perfect spot for anyone traveling the NE BDR—a place to rest, refuel, and reflect on the journey.

Dinner that evening was served at 7 PM—or a few minutes later, given that time tends to move at its own pace at such heights. After a week of riding, the three-course menu was exactly what we needed: a fresh salad that was a welcome change from road food, followed by perfectly grilled chicken or cod with shrimp, all paired with a fine selection of wines. The meal sparked memories and laughter as we recounted the week’s adventures, each story bringing us closer to the end of our journey.

As we savored the last bites of dessert, I couldn’t help but feel a pang of sadness, knowing this was our final dinner of the trip. But instead of dwelling on the end, I threw out an idea that instantly reignited the group’s excitement: “Why don’t we start planning our next ride? Another BDR route? Maybe somewhere in Europe? Africa? South America?” The table buzzed with possibilities as we began dreaming up our next adventure. The destination was decided, the plans started to take shape, and the next ride for 2025 was already in the works. But for now, we’ll leave the details under wraps—just to keep the intrigue alive.

A Ride Through the Clouds

The next morning, still shrouded in clouds, we prepared the bikes and descended Mount Greylock. The mist clung to the mountain, but as we rode lower, the clouds cleared, revealing a world transformed by the previous day’s storm. We later learned that New Jersey had been hit hard by heavy rains and flooding, but our timing and the mountain’s sheltering presence had saved us from the worst of it. The ride back was quiet, each savoring the last hour on these incredible roads and bikes.

When we finally arrived at Ed’s garage, Ed and Rusty were waiting for us, their faces lighting up with welcoming smiles and eager questions about the trip. It was the perfect ending to a journey that had been as challenging as it was rewarding, filled with unforgettable moments, new friendships, and the kind of adventures that stay long after you’ve parked the bike.