From Lima to Bogota

Diego’s Epic Motorcycle Adventure Continues

Diego Rosón’s epic journey from Ushuaia to Alaska continues to captivate adventurers and motorcycle enthusiasts alike. In this segment, we follow him as he navigates the challenges of the second leg of his expedition, traveling from Lima to Bogotá. If you’re just joining us, check out the previous editions, where we’ve covered the thrilling first leg of his trip from La Quiaca to Ushuaia and the start of his second leg from La Quiaca to Lima. Diego’s journey showcases the unpredictable nature of long-distance motorcycle travel, filled with unexpected encounters, personal growth, and stunning landscapes.

In this edition, Diego battles the elements and urban chaos, facing tricky border crossings, a broken windshield, and even an encounter with sea turtles off the Peruvian coast. As he crosses into Ecuador, the narrative becomes even more vibrant, with visits to iconic spots like the Quilotoa Volcano and the Amazon rainforest. Join Diego as he shares his experiences on the road, highlighting the beauty, challenges, and camaraderie that make this adventure one for the ages.

From Desert Sands

to Jungle Roads

The desert can be mesmerizing until you’re battling relentless winds and misfortune. After a long day’s ride through barren landscapes, Diego found himself in a nightmare on the chaotic streets of Chimbote. A sudden impact left him on the ground with a shattered windshield, his bike damaged, and a scammer demanding cash. What started as a hopeful day of adventure quickly spiraled into frustration and danger. Still, Diego’s resilience carried him through the windswept desert roads to the promise of solace by the sea. This is the story of survival, grit, and the unpredictable nature of life on the road.

Windswept Desert Roads and a Broken Windshield

After a much-needed rest in Lima and a day of maintenance for Franqui at Royal Enfield Peru, Diego began the longest stretch of this leg: 405 miles (653 km) in a single day to reach Chicama, aiming to turn the saved time into a surfing day. However, things quickly became complicated.

Navigating Lima’s relentless traffic took two hours to cover the first 50 miles (80 km), with thick fog slowing him down further. Seeking a change of scenery, Diego stopped in Barranca, where he encountered local fishermen using inflatable tractor tubes to fish miles offshore, risking their lives for their livelihoods. After snapping some photos, he continued on his way.

Strong winds swept sand across the road as he rode into the desert, creating a surreal effect under his wheels. Despite the delays, the real challenge came in the chaotic urban traffic of Peru’s cities. In Chimbote, a car door suddenly swung open in the middle of a busy avenue, knocking Diego to the ground and shattering his windshield. By the time he picked himself up, the car responsible was gone. Instead, a taxi driver approached, falsely accusing Diego of damaging his car. The situation quickly became tense, with the driver trying to extort him.

As a seasoned traveler, Diego always carried extra cash for these kinds of situations. After a quick but frustrating negotiation, he settled the issue and got back on the road.

With the final rays of daylight, he arrived in Chicama just in time to witness the sun setting over the world’s most extended wave, fulfilling his goal of avoiding night riding despite the day’s obstacles.

After the strenuous day before, Diego woke up exhausted and still frustrated from the incident in Chimbote that left him with a broken windshield and an unpleasant encounter with a scammer. However, upon arriving at Surf House Chicama, Katy, the owner, warmly welcomed him, whose smile made him feel instantly at home. Within minutes, he had his room, Franqui was safely stored, and he was off to grab some beers and food for the evening.

Back at the hostel, Diego met Ro, a Spanish traveler who invited him to share dinner. After several hours and several beers, they had become fast friends. By the time he went to bed, all the stress from the previous day had faded away.

Surfing the Longest Wave: A Brief Respite in Chicama

Albert, his surf guide, picked him up for a full day in the water the following day. Despite realizing that his arms weren’t as strong as his legs, Diego stubbornly paddled out with Albert’s help. He caught a few waves and wiped out many more, but two perfect waves made the trip worthwhile.

By sunset, Diego was back on land, capturing photos of the beautiful view from the hostel. That evening, he and his new friends shared a meal and toasted the hope of meeting again one day.

After some drinks the night before, Diego decided to alter his route and stick closer to the coast. The plan was to visit Ñuro, adding about 60 extra miles (100 km) to the day’s ride. Eager to avoid the chaos of Chimbote, Diego woke up early, quietly rolling his bike out of the hostel at dawn.

Despite his hopes of riding alongside the Pacific, most of the day’s journey led him through the desert under intense heat. Only near the Ecuadorian border did he catch a glimpse of the lush jungle and banana vendors lining the road, a sign of the changing landscape ahead.

Feeling exhausted, Diego stopped at a small roadside stand, where he met Luisa, a woman feeding her baby inside a three-wheeled “tucu tucu.” Her resilience gave him the boost he needed to continue. After some water and a quick rest, he pressed on.

Turtles and New Friends: A Serendipitous Stop in Órganos

Arriving in Órganos around midday, Diego was delighted to find he’d secured a cabin by the ocean. While ordering lunch, he learned that he could spot turtles there instead of in Ñuro. Excited, he rented a kayak and paddled to the fishermen’s dock. A massive turtle surfaced beside him as he approached, followed by two more. They swam around him curiously, and Diego even grabbed onto one for a short ride. He spent the afternoon marveling at these creatures, a magical experience he hadn’t expected on this motorcycle journey.

Diego set off before dawn, riding through a deserted dirt road, hoping to save time in case the Peru-Ecuador border crossing took longer than expected. Peru gave him a final gift: the last 60 miles (100 km) along the coast, a fitting farewell after a wonderful stay in the country.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.
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Crossing Ecuador, From Coastal Roads to Mountain Tunnels

Unfortunately, the border crossing was a headache, taking over two and a half hours. Entering Ecuador, heavy rain made things difficult, especially with the broken windshield. The real challenge came on the Troncal de la Sierra, a beautiful road through jungles and mountains. Rain washed down mud from the hills, making the road slippery and forcing Diego to slow down. As he climbed higher, visibility dropped until he was engulfed in a thick cloud, barely able to see more than 16 feet (5 meters) ahead.

Then, as Diego put it, “I reached the magic tunnel.” On one side, the worst possible conditions; on the other, sunshine, warmth, and dry roads—a true gift from the heavens. With renewed energy, Diego arrived at Royal Enfield Cuenca just in time for lunch, where the team welcomed him like family. After exchanging gifts, they interviewed him for their social media and offered to check his bike, but everything was running smoothly.

Later, Diego’s new local friend, Ñata, gave him a tour of Cuenca and helped him pick out a Panama hat—fun fact: they’re actually from Cuenca, not Panama! The day ended with a beautiful dinner, and Diego finally collapsed into bed, amazed he was still standing after starting the day at 4:30 AM in Peru and finishing in Ecuador.

Diego’s morning started calmly, without the usual rush, as he met up with his friends Ñata and Miguel for a leisurely Sunday ride. With time to spare, he took care of Franqui’s maintenance, ensuring she was ready for the journey ahead, especially with the thought of navigating through the Amazon and its wildlife.

And remember:

Don’t just collect miles, collect memories.

Words by: Diego Roson – Photo Credits: Diego Roson

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BTA Magazine September 2023

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