From La Quiaca to Bogotá

Diego’s Epic Motorcycle Adventure Continues

Diego Rosón continues his extraordinary adventure from Ushuaia to Alaska. This journey, divided into multiple stages, started in the southernmost city in the world and now takes Diego from La Quiaca, Argentina, to Bogotá, Colombia. In this second stage, Diego encounters the unique landscapes of Bolivia and Peru, pushing the limits of his endurance and motorcycle. In the first stage, Diego traveled through the diverse terrains of Argentina, battling extreme weather conditions and mechanical challenges. Readers can find the origins of this epic journey in previous issues of BTA, where the spirit of adventure and the thrill of the open road come to life.

The journey from La Quiaca to Bogotá is far from over. Diego faces new challenges and unforgettable moments as he navigates through the Andean highlands, coastal deserts, and bustling cities. His encounters with local cultures and breathtaking landscapes make each mile an adventure. This second stage is not just about reaching Bogotá but embracing every experience along the way. Stay tuned as we follow Diego’s thrilling ride, capturing the essence of motorcycle travel and the relentless pursuit of dreams.

On the Road Again

The Journey Begins

“Door.” This was the message Henry sent Diego at 3:28 AM with German punctuality. The long wait had finally become a reality. If his friend, an expert in adventure travel, took it seriously enough to sacrifice his rest and drive him to the airport, it meant that it was no longer just a dream. The message got Diego out of bed and filled him with energy and adrenaline to start the second stage of his journey from La Quiaca to Bogotá.

After saying goodbye and receiving expert advice from Henry, Diego flew for almost two hours to reunite with Franqui, his travel companion, who had traveled by truck a few days earlier to San Salvador de Jujuy. Reuniting with his Classic 500 always signaled that something good was about to happen. After three long years of postponing this moment, they left the warehouse with a shout of “Let’s go!” as a cheer of revenge.

However, when he saw the long fuel line, the victory cry quickly turned to frustration. Diego literally started a pilgrimage to the gas station door. Three and a half hours later, he finally got his turn.

 

Heading to La Quiaca

At 2:30 PM, Diego headed towards La Quiaca, hungry for the road and ready to complete the first positioning stage. The next day, he planned to be at the Bolivian border bright and early to start the journey on the right foot. The day was cloudy with occasional drops, but nothing serious. The headwind and the initial ascents that gradually took him to 12,303 feet (3750 meters) above sea level made his progress slow.

He passed the entrances to Purmamarca, Tilcara, and Humahuaca. Ideally, Diego had planned to visit them again, but the time spent searching for fuel had eaten into his relaxation time. Following a supreme rule, he aimed to avoid driving at night, and the sun was already too low to risk it. The road to La Quiaca is like a storybook, winding through exotic canyons and mountains. However, he understood from his research that it was only a prelude to what lay ahead in the coming days.

Things got even better when the wind shifted south, easing the struggle to move forward. The tailwind provided a super relaxed end to the day, as if he were riding on a flying carpet. A large group of llamas approached the road to watch him pass, and with plenty of time and tranquility, he took the luxury of stopping to photograph them. He refueled at the last gas station in Argentina without any issues and went to rest, ready to present himself at the Bolivian border first thing in the morning. Yes, he was entering the international league.

Exploring Bolivia

Bolivia: Villazón to Uyuni

Diego began his adventure early, waking up at 6:30 AM, eager to start his journey. After meticulously organizing his documents, he crossed into Villazón, Bolivia, covering 184 miles (296 kilometers) on the first day. The initial frustration at the border quickly turned to joy as he rode through curves, canyons, and mountains, guided by train tracks to Atocha. In Atocha, he explored the well-preserved mining settlement from 1570, fascinated by its history. Continuing to Uyuni, Diego visited the train cemetery, capturing cinematic photos of the old, abandoned trains.

In Uyuni, Diego met Mauricio from Saltpics, who taught him the art of astrophotography. The clear skies of Salar de Uyuni, with millions of visible stars, made for an unforgettable night. “I went crazy, as the Salar de Uyuni is one of the places in the world with the least light pollution, which translates to millions and millions of visible stars,” he noted. Despite the cold, the experience was magical, and Diego eventually retired to his hotel, ready for the next leg of his journey.

Adventures and Challenges

Diego woke up early and enjoyed a hearty breakfast, knowing he wouldn’t have time for lunch on the road. After checking his bike, he headed to Pulacayo, climbing to 13,550 feet (4,137 meters) above sea level. The altitude caused a slight headache, and his motorcycle, Franqui, struggled with the thin air, forcing Diego to slow down.

Pulacayo, once a bustling silver mining town with 13,000 workers, is now a ghost town. Diego explored its history, including the infamous robbery by Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid. He was lucky enough to enter the silver mine, experiencing firsthand the harsh conditions miners faced.

Continuing his journey, Diego ventured into the Salar de Uyuni during the day, driving 12 miles (20 kilometers) across the vast, white expanse. “It’s a crazy feeling to drive without reference points,” he remarked. After retracing his path, he set off for Oruro, aiming to cover 219 miles (353 kilometers).

At cruising speed, a group of motorcyclists passed him, only for one to crash into a guardrail shortly after. Diego stopped to help, but the response from the local nurse and police was slow and inadequate. Realizing there was little more he could do, he continued his journey, reflecting on the dangers of traveling alone on remote roads.

As he rode, Diego noticed small sand whirlwinds forming around him, a magical sight that lifted his spirits and brought him closer to Oruro.

Diego rushed out of Oruro, escaping a nightmare night filled with the chaos of the “Night of the Convite.” The hotel had turned into a party zone, leaving Diego struggling to sleep through the noise. He hit the road early, hoping to cover the 209 miles (336 kilometers) to La Paz.

On the way, he took a break to watch a local football match, appreciating the vibrant community. Entering La Paz, Diego faced an eternal traffic jam, wishing he could load his bike onto the city’s cable car. Navigating the congestion, he finally reached Route 3, leading him to the infamous Death Road after climbing 14,700 feet (4,470 meters).

And remember:

Don’t just collect miles, collect memories.

Photos: Diego Roson – Words: Mike de la Torre

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BTA Magazine September 2023

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