I thought I knew France. My job takes me there almost every year, and I usually sneak in a few days to ride the famous roads, visit charming villages, and eat my weight in croissants. France is like a second home on two wheels—predictable, picturesque, and paved to perfection. Or so I thought.

Then came the call.

“Pablo, you need to come ride with us,” said Florance. “Eight days of adventure through France. It’ll change everything you think you know.”

Adventure? In France? I almost laughed. I had toured this country from the cliffs of Normandy to the hairpin bends of the Alps. Where could we possibly go that wasn’t swarming with tourists or mapped out like a Michelin guide? I humored the idea, but my skepticism rang clear when I called Matthias.

“An adventure route in France?” he echoed, his voice dripping with the same disbelief. “Are we talking about the same place?”

A few days later, we were packed and headed to France, following Florance’s mysterious route, and that’s when the real adventure began. We discovered a world within France that seemed hidden from time itself—a world where we rode for days without seeing another car, where the roads were more gravel than pavement, and the villages felt like they hadn’t changed in centuries. This wasn’t the France I thought I knew. It was wilder, quieter, and more stunning than I ever imagined.

The Ride Begins

Preparation is everything, especially when you’re about to embark on an eleven-day, 2,500 miles (4,000-kilometer) journey across one of Europe’s most stunning yet unpredictable landscapes. France might be famous for its charming roads and perfectly paved highways, but we were going off the beaten path—literally. We needed bikes and gear that could handle not just smooth tarmac but dirt, mud, and the unknown.

Our first call was to BMW Motorrad Germany, and within minutes, Alexander had secured us two trusty steeds fit for the task. The BMW F1250 GS Adventure Trophy and the nimble BMW F900 GS Adventure were to be our companions for this journey. Both bikes were fully equipped with the travel set, giving us everything from panniers to protection, ready for whatever the French countryside threw at us. The F1250 GS Adventure is a beast of a machine, perfect for long hauls with plenty of off-road capability. Meanwhile, the F900 GS Adventure, lighter and more agile, would let us take on trickier sections of the route with confidence. Between these two, we had all the bases covered.

Dressing for the Ride

When you’re facing everything from sun to rain to possible sleet, what you wear matters just as much as the bike you ride. For this trip, we decided to go all-in on European gear. Safety and comfort were non-negotiable, and after some research, the brand that stood out was HELD, based in Germany. Known for their top-notch protective gear, HELD delivered everything we needed for a trip that would take us through varied and unpredictable weather conditions.

We chose the Carese Evo GORE-TEX touring jacket and the Torno Evo GORE-TEX pants—both absolute standouts in rider gear. Waterproof, windproof, and designed for breathability, this set gave us flexibility no matter what France decided to throw our way. For boots, the Brickland Gore-Tex boots not only provided protection but also looked good doing it. To protect our hands, we picked the Air n Dry II GORE-TEX gloves, offering an innovative dual-chamber system that allowed us to adapt to warm and cold conditions instantly.

We didn’t stop at basic protective gear. Knowing that safety should always be a top priority, we added the eVest & In&box airbag system to our setup. This electronically activated airbag vest may seem like overkill for some, but the additional back protection and the seamless integration under our jackets made it a no-brainer. Plus, after a quick test, we realized it was so comfortable that we almost forgot we had it on.

Finally, we completed our setup with a critical piece of gear: the helmet. After evaluating several options, the clear winner for this kind of adventure was the NEXX X.WED 3 TRAILMANIA 2024. Known for its versatility and comfort on long rides, it provided the perfect balance of protection and airflow, ideal for high-speed stretches and slow, technical sections. The helmet is designed to easily accommodate communication systems, and we installed the Cardo Packtalk Pro—a perfect fit.

From our years on adventure rides, we’ve learned that clear communication between riders is crucial for preventing incidents. With the Cardo Packtalk Pro, we could instantly warn each other about hazards like loose gravel or sudden obstacles, keeping everyone safe. Beyond safety, the communication system also helped make those long highway stretches more enjoyable, allowing us to share stories, crack jokes, and keep the group connected when the ride got a bit monotonous.

Into the Unknown

With the bikes packed, gear on, and the first light of day creeping over the horizon, we set off from Munich. Our first leg was straightforward: a fast-paced 250-mile (400 km) ride to Strasbourg, France, where we would meet the rest of the group at Frédérique MEY – Gîte. The rain started just minutes after hitting the road, but that didn’t slow us down. We opted for the Autobahn, knowing it was the quickest route to France, and pushed forward with our sights set on crossing the border.

The decision to go with the HELD gear and the NEXX helmets paid off right away. Despite the downpour, not a single drop made it past our gear. We stayed completely dry and comfortable, a promising start to our adventure. By the time we rolled into Frédérique MEY around 4 p.m., the rain had eased to a light drizzle. Florance was there to greet us, along with Stephan, the man responsible for guiding the group and handling the support vehicle.

Within minutes of our arrival, the rest of the riders began trickling in. We were a group of nine in total, all eager and buzzing with excitement. After settling in and drying off, we sat down to a hearty dinner of sausages and sauerkraut, a perfect meal to kick off what we knew would be an epic ride. As we finished up, Stephan gathered everyone around to explain how the TrailRando Adventures system works.

Each rider was given a small handheld Garmin GPS, and Stephan had already mounted the GPS holders onto each bike. These GPS units were pre-loaded with four different route options for the same destination, each designed to suit different skill levels. There was an expert-only hard enduro route, an advanced enduro route, a beginner-friendly enduro route with a bit of tarmac, and a full-tarmac route for those who preferred a more leisurely ride.

The system was brilliantly simple. Every morning during breakfast, the group would set the day’s waypoint—usually the location where we’d stop for lunch. Once the GPS was loaded with the destination, the riders were free to choose whichever track suited their mood or skill level for the day. At midday, when we arrived at the lunch stop, we’d set the next waypoint—our hotel for the night—ensuring we were always on course for both adventure and rest. This wasn’t your typical follow-the-leader adventure ride. Here, you could pick your own path and set your own pace. Complete freedom. I had never experienced anything like it before on an organized adventure ride.

Stephan recommended riding with a buddy, just in case something went wrong, but other than that, you were on your own. The GPS showed your position on the map with a radius of about 80 meters, guiding you along the chosen route. Each turn presented a new surprise, and if you felt like switching between more accessible or challenging tracks mid-ride, that was totally up to you. This wasn’t just an adventure; it was an exploration—every rider carving their own path through the French wilderness.

The next morning, at 7 a.m., we were all geared up and ready to go. The rain had stopped, but the air was crisp, and the roads were still damp from the night before. With our GPS units set and the lines of the unknown routes glowing on the screens, we mounted our bikes, eager to leave the familiar behind and dive headfirst into this new adventure.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.

Setting the Scene at Frédérique MEY

The morning was electric with excitement as we gathered, bikes revving softly, filling the air with the scent of petrol and anticipation. The crew was ready: Hugo, William, and Philippe on Yamaha Ténéré 700s, Jean-Pierre on a KTM 790, Florance with her nimble Yamaha 450F, and Marc on a rugged Suzuki enduro. The BMW contingent—Gautier, Antoine, Matthias, and I—all astride GSs, were itching to test these machines on the unfamiliar terrain.

Stephan, our support driver, had everything loaded into the van—our luggage, a backup Yamaha 450 for any breakdowns, and all the tools we’d need to keep the ride light and efficient. While we tackled the off-road routes, Stephan would follow along using the tarmac track on the GPS, always ensuring he was nearby in case we needed assistance. With the final checks done, the adventure was officially underway.

From the Alsatian Vineyards to Muddy Trails

After weaving through the outskirts of Strasbourg, we hit the open road bound for Colmar. The anticipation shifted to focus as the tarmac gave way to smaller paths until we found ourselves on dirt tracks meandering through the Alsatian vineyards. The landscape was stunning, with poppy-red houses dotting the fields. But soon, the adventure truly began.

Two turns later, we were deep in the Vosges Mountains, navigating through muddy farm trails that had been softened by the previous days’ rain. Our BMW GS 1250 was powerful, but we quickly realized that the expert hard enduro track would be too much for its size. The mud was relentless, and we decided to stick to the easier route for the day. The Ténérés and KTM continued while we found our rhythm adjusting to the softer conditions route in the GPS.

The route took us through the heart of the Vosges, with no traffic save for the occasional farmer on a tractor. As we climbed higher, the landscape transformed into the serene Plateau des Mille Étangs (Thousand Lakes Plateau). It was like riding through the Finnish tundra, with small lakes, ponds, and endless stretches of ferns and birches framing our path. Here, nature’s quiet beauty made us feel like we were the only ones left in this corner of France.

The isolation was broken only by the soft hum of our engines, as we cut through these ancient woods. By midday, we were famished. TrailRando promised their riders wouldn’t just experience the best of adventure riding, but also the best of French dining. They didn’t disappoint. Our lunch stop at Restaurant Du Haut Du Roc, perched in Basse Sur Le Rupt, was nothing short of an oasis after hours of muddy trails. We were greeted with a three-course meal that made us momentarily forget about the ruggedness of the ride. It was hard to believe this was just the first day, with many more to come.