April 2018, the first week. Our adventure motorcycles stand ready, shimmering in the desert dawn as we prepare to document the Southern California Backcountry Discovery Route (CABDR-South). This 820-mile journey, crafted by dedicated BDR volunteers over four years, unfolds across the south-eastern expanse of California, from Yuma, AZ to Benton, CA. The route is a tapestry of rugged two-track and remote dirt roads, a true test of our off-road prowess.

Yuma, AZ, at the confluence of three borders, marks the beginning of our journey. The Colorado River glistens under the sun, its serene flow a deceptive prelude to the stark desertscape ahead. We rendezvous at Picacho State Park campground, its tranquil banks belying the brutal terrain we’re about to face. The first day offers a dramatic contrast: the cool, blue Colorado River against the harsh desertscape, a dichotomy that sets the tone for our adventure.

Our first challenge: the Garilan Wash. A 4-mile stretch of seemingly bottomless sand consumes three hours of our journey, transforming our teamwork into a lifeline against the shifting, riverbed-like sands. This is where the true nature of the CABDR-South reveals itself. Conditions here are as unpredictable as a desert storm, ever-changing and unforgiving. It’s a stark reminder of why BDR refrains from publishing difficulty ratings for the roads – one moment’s firm, damply packed sand can become a rider’s nightmare in the blink of an eye.

This is no ordinary ride. It’s a raw, visceral experience that tests your limits and then some. The route pushes us, the bikes, and our collective willpower to the edge. Each twist, each turn, each unforgiving stretch of road demands respect. It’s as if the desert itself is alive, watching, waiting to see who among us has the mettle to endure its trials.

As the sun sets on our first day, casting long shadows across the landscape, we’re left with a profound respect for the land and the journey ahead. The CABDR-South is a proving ground for those daring enough to traverse its rugged paths. And this is just the beginning.

The Blythe Intaglios

Our journey continues through the Colorado Desert, where primitive camping opportunities abound. We make camp next to the Blythe Intaglios, ancient Native American drawings etched into the ground, akin to the Nasca lines in Peru. Discovered by a pilot in 1931, these 800-year-old geoglyphs are an enigmatic piece of history, their giant forms whispering tales of a bygone era under the vast desert sky.

The Blythe Intaglios consist of six figures, including three human forms and three animals, most likely depicting mythic characters and sacred symbols. The largest human figure stretches an impressive 171 feet, while the other figures, including animals resembling mountain lions and serpents, add to the mysterious allure of the site. The geoglyphs were created by scraping away the dark topsoil to reveal the lighter earth beneath, a laborious process that underscores the significance these figures held for their creators. Believed to have been made by the ancestors of the Quechan and Mojave tribes, the Intaglios likely served as messages to the gods or as markers for sacred rituals and dances held to honor the creation myths.

The Mojave National Preserve

We venture into the heart of the Mojave Desert, where fast, fun two-tracks stretch out before us, a playground of dips and rises that keep us alert and exhilarated. The thrill of riding these tracks is matched only by the stunning desert backdrop that surrounds us. We merge onto the historic Route 66, making a much-needed pit stop at the Sahara Oasis gas station in Essex, CA. Here, shade and sustenance come at a premium, but in this remote expanse, the inflated prices are a small price to pay for a brief respite.

Crossing the Mojave Road, an ancient Native American trail turned wagon route, we traverse 138 miles of sandy tracks beloved by off-road enthusiasts. The journey is a tribute to the resilience of those who first navigated this harsh terrain, seeking water and a path through the unforgiving desert.

Our next segment has us weaving through Joshua trees, the landscape shifting as we climb to 6,000 feet above sea level. The sprawling desert vista opens up before us, a breathtaking panorama that culminates in Caruthers Canyon within the New York Mountains. As night falls, we camp under a canopy of stars, surrounded by castellated granite formations. These towering spires, perched boulders, and curved cliff faces, eroded by time and elements, create a surreal, otherworldly setting. The sense of adventure is palpable, the desert’s silent beauty a constant companion as we rest and prepare for the challenges yet to come.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.

Historic Mines of California

Tracing the mining history of the Wild West is an integral part of this route. After a brief stop in Primm, AZ, for fuel, we head south, passing the colossal Ivanpah Solar Electric Generating System. This behemoth, the largest solar thermal power plant in the world, harnesses the sun’s power with a 377-megawatt net solar complex that gleams with futuristic ambition against the desert landscape.

Our path leads us up a steep, rock-strewn ascent, a technical challenge that tests our riding skills to their limits. Cresting the climb, we are greeted by the sprawling expanse of the Colosseum Mine. Active from the 1930s to the early 1990s, this open-pit mine’s sheer scale is awe-inspiring. The aquamarine lake at its base contrasts starkly with the golden earth tones and azure skies, creating a visual feast that underscores the rugged beauty and history of the region.

Further along, we delve into the depths of the Reward Mine, riding half a mile into the darkness of a narrow shaft. The oppressive weight of the earth above is palpable, and feelings of claustrophobia challenge our resolve. Sitting in total darkness, the silence is profound, broken only by the hum of our bikes as we make our way back to the surface, a triumphant return to the light.

One of the most evocative stops on our journey is the Cerro Gordo Ghost Town near Lone Pine. This abandoned mining town, steeped in Wild West lore, is brought to life by its resident historian and caretaker. Amid tales of Butch Cassidy’s stay at the American Hotel, the ghost town whispers of a bygone era. Recently purchased by new owners, plans are afoot to revive Cerro Gordo, with accommodations aimed at attracting a new wave of tourism.