Welcome back to the unfolding story of Diego Roson and Guillermo “Willy” Ortelli. In an adventure that stretches from the southern tip of Ushuaia to the distant reaches of Alaska, we rejoin the riders at a crucial juncture. The dream of traversing the full length of the Americas by motorcycle was nearly cut short by mechanical challenges that threatened to end Diego’s journey prematurely. Yet, through the collective efforts of Royal Enfield Argentina and the skilled team at Let’s Ride Patagonia, led by the adept mechanic Colo, their expedition found new life. With Diego’s bike revived, the path lay open once more to the rugged and awe-inspiring landscapes of Patagonia, a vivid reflection of the enduring dream that drives them onward.

For our loyal readers who have been following this saga from the beginning, the next leg of Diego and Willy’s journey promises more thrilling escapades, breathtaking vistas, and the steadfast bond that has sustained them through every challenge and victory. And to those who are joining us for the first time, we invite you to experience the extraordinary tale of two friends on an odyssey that goes beyond mere travel, touching the essence of adventure and the pursuit of dreams. We encourage you to seek out our previous issue to discover how this incredible journey began and to join us as we continue to follow their path toward Ushuaia.

Back on Two Wheels

The Patagonian Expedition

Revitalized by the recent successful repairs on their Royal Enfield Classic 500, Diego and Willy set off from Villa La Angostura at the break of dawn, their spirits buoyed by the continued journey ahead. As they rode south, covering 257 miles (414 km) that day, the near end of their journey still echoed in their minds, a stark reminder of the fortitude required to pursue such dreams.

Their route took them through Puerto Manzano, where they took a moment to immerse themselves in the serene beauty, capturing the essence of the place through their lenses. The road then led them through Bariloche and El Bolsón, areas awash with vibrant yellow flowers and violet lupines, painting a scene of bliss that Diego found utterly captivating.

As they progressed beyond El Bolsón, the landscape underwent a subtle transformation. The vibrant greens interlaced with yellow gradually gave way to a more consistent natural palette, marking their journey through the heart of Patagonia. To stave off the creeping fatigue and maintain his sharpness, Diego resorted to eucalyptus gummies, a simple yet effective remedy that kept him alert through the miles.

Initially, Esquel was in their sights as the day’s endpoint, but the allure of the road and the promise of a warm welcome spurred them to push further to Trevelin. In this quaint town, thanks to the thoughtful arrangements by the Let’s Ride Patagonia team, they were greeted with the comfort of a fishing lodge nestled by the arm of Futalaufquén, offering a restful end to the day with a scenic mountain view and the simple pleasure of cold beers awaiting their arrival.

In the picturesque town of Trevelin, Diego and Willy’s day unfolded amidst breathtaking vistas. Their morning routine, unhurried and thorough, included a breakfast that allowed them to soak in the tranquil atmosphere. The motorcycles received careful attention before the duo set off, capturing the placid beauty of the Futalaufquén river in the soft morning light.

Their journey stretched across 350 miles (563 km) of open road, leading them through the expansive, monotonous yet strangely meditative steppe. The simplicity of the landscape provided a backdrop for introspection, with Diego relying on eucalyptus gummies to sharpen his focus amid the vastness. As they neared Perito Moreno, the skies transformed into a theater of dark clouds and distant storms. This natural spectacle created a dramatic setting for their travel, with Diego and Willy expertly navigating the changing conditions, turning their day into a delicate ballet with the elements, skillfully evading the rain that threatened to envelop them.

Waking in Perito Moreno to a day bathed in sunlight, Diego and Willy were greeted by perfect riding conditions. Their breakfast encounter with a Brazilian friend and his impressive trike briefly transported Diego into a Mad Max daydream. The morning’s bite in the air led them to layer up for warmth.

With an extra fuel tank strapped on to mitigate the rumored shortages in Bajo Caracoles, they embarked on a 251-mile (405 km) ride. The journey was softened by the stunning landscapes that warmed their spirits. A visit to the ancient Cueva de las Manos in Santa Cruz Province was a journey highlight, weaving historical richness into their narrative.

As they navigated a 38-mile (60 km) stretch of gravel road, their day’s tranquility was challenged by an encroaching rainstorm, bringing with it a cold front and fierce winds. In Bajo Caracoles, a hearty meal of milanesas provided much-needed sustenance before they pressed on through the tempestuous weather.

Their arrival in Gobernador Gregores marked the day’s end, as the sun reemerged, heralding the close of a day defined by the dramatic whims of nature. Each mile traversed added a layer of depth and excitement to their ongoing adventure, encapsulating the essence of their journey through Patagonia’s heart.

Venturing deeper into the rugged heart of Austral Patagonia, Diego and Willy set their sights on El Calafate, covering 208 miles (335 km) of the region’s most challenging terrains. The day promised a shorter distance but delivered the full spectrum of Patagonian weather’s unpredictability.

Close-up of Ducati DesertX Rally's high front mudguard and wheel.

Starting early to make the most of the day, they were met with biting cold and forceful winds, which immediately set a demanding tone for the ride. The route’s gravelly and uneven sections required intense focus, offering a brief respite from the chill but intensifying the day’s challenge.

In his journal, Diego captured the essence of their experience, noting, “The harsh Patagonian elements are relentless, but so is our determination. Every challenging mile makes us appreciate the journey even more.” This sentiment was put to the test when a sudden hailstorm struck, prompting a burst of laughter as they swiftly donned their rain gear, embodying the unpredictable spirit of their adventure.

As they approached El Calafate, snow began to fall, adding a surreal layer to the already diverse weather they had encountered. Arriving in the city, the duo felt a mix of exhaustion and exhilaration; the day’s journey, though short in distance, was intensely rich in experiences and epitomized the adventurous spirit they had embraced.

Their visit to the Perito Moreno Glacier later offered a stark contrast to the day’s earlier trials. Opting for the comfort of a rented car, they experienced the glacier’s icy grandeur in a more relaxed manner, leaving Diego awestruck. Reflecting on the day, he remarked, “Visiting Perito Moreno was a reminder of why we travel – to witness the extraordinary. Today was a perfect blend of challenge and wonder,” capturing the dual nature of their journey through Patagonia’s wild landscapes.

Following a rejuvenating day and the rigors of prior travels, Diego and Willy commenced the next leg of their journey with calm anticipation, covering 169 miles (272 km). Their day kicked off with a satisfying breakfast, after which they diligently prepared their motorcycles for the road ahead.

The journey commenced with what should have been a brief ride to the nearest gas station, but they were met with an unexpected long line, the cause of which remained a mystery, leading to a 45-minute wait under the glaring sun. This unforeseen delay, rather than being a nuisance, turned into a moment for contemplation and enjoying the warmth of the sun, locally dubbed “the poor man’s poncho,” symbolizing how those without means find solace and warmth in the sun’s embrace, much like a poncho for the less fortunate.

Departing El Calafate, they navigated ascending curves that led to an expansive plateau, once again confronting the persistent Patagonian wind. Diego’s trust in his motorcycle, strengthened by recent repairs, was evident as they traversed the last stretch of gravel roads in continental Argentina. The varied terrain of stone, mud, sand, and puddles, initially challenging, ultimately contributed to their enjoyment of the journey. An impromptu race with two hares along the way injected a moment of lighthearted fun.

The gravel path concluded at a refueling stop, after which they proceeded to cross the Cancha Carreta border into Chile, advancing towards Puerto Natales under the constant push of the Patagonian wind. Their afternoon arrival, bathed in the late sunlight typical of the southern latitudes, gave the impression of an earlier day.

In Puerto Natales, after settling in, they ventured out to explore the town’s charms on foot, culminating the day by forming new friendships in a local bar. Their day concluded with the convivial clink of glasses, a “Chin chin” toast, encapsulating another day of delightful contrasts and shared experiences.

Departing from Puerto Natales at the crack of dawn, Diego and Willy ventured into the southern Chilean expanse, eager to uncover hidden gems like Puerto Prat. This quest led them to the tranquil shores of Puerto Consuelo, a coastal village where time seemed to stand still, its harbor holding whispers of a bygone era. Here, amidst the hushed beauty, they paused, capturing the serene atmosphere through their lenses, a welcome interlude from the relentless pace of the road.

Their tranquil exploration was jolted by an unexpected turn—a drone mishap—that brought a sharp reminder of their journey’s finite nature. Yet, the allure of discovery propelled them forward to Puerto Prat, a locale that charmed them with its modest bay and remnants of maritime history.

The journey continued to Villa Tehuelche, where they savored Choriqueso, a culinary delight combining chorizo and cheese, diving into the local gastronomy. An unforeseen gesture of hospitality came from the owner of the food stand, who invited them into her home for lunch, adding a layer of warmth and authenticity to their experience.

Completing their 192-mile (310 km) journey for the day, they approached Punta Arenas, a city marked by its windswept avenues and status as a portal to the Antarctic. Here, amidst the city’s embrace, they found a peaceful haven, allowing them to reflect on the day’s rich tapestry of experiences and anticipate the adventures yet to come.